Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Disregard corners, acquire timeslips!

It's still the wrong tool for the job - as a drag car it'll always be compromised by the car being factory designed for the track. For the same reason, you wouldn't bother trying to make a track car out of a door slammer...

Sure is a monster though. As someone said, for fun and to demonstrate the hopelessness of the human condition :P

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I disagree, drag racing a late model sports car sounds perfectly fine to me. And the R35 is the prefect weapon to attack a drag strip. The USA is the home of drag racing, so naturally they are leading the charge.

Wrong chassis my arse, What makes it good on a circuit also makes it good on a drag strip...The chassis can handle it.

This is not a heavy car by their standards, matter of fact they would consider it a lightweight. The fact that nissan themselves dialled in that incredible launch control only makes it more desirable to the 1/4 milers.

I doubt we've seen the end of development of the 35 gtr as a drag car by a long shot.

The fact that nissan themselves dialled in that incredible launch control only makes it more desirable to the 1/4 milers.

they arent using the oem lc programming mate

I disagree, drag racing a late model sports car sounds perfectly fine to me. And the R35 is the prefect weapon to attack a drag strip.

i cant legally drag race my sub 10.99 late model sports car :whistling:

Edited by domino_z

How is it perfect for the strip? It's a heavy cornering machine from the factory. In a straight line it'll get done by plenty of RWD cars with less power. Not saying you won't take your share of victories with the thing, but you're not going to be taking any titles or records outside of other heavy AWD cars / fellow GTRs. I don't see any AWD doorslammers, do you? Anyway, really cool car and that dyno graph makes your average graph look pretty insignificant!

How is it perfect for the strip? It's a heavy cornering machine from the factory. In a straight line it'll get done by plenty of RWD cars with less power. Not saying you won't take your share of victories with the thing, but you're not going to be taking any titles or records outside of other heavy AWD cars / fellow GTRs. I don't see any AWD doorslammers, do you? Anyway, really cool car and that dyno graph makes your average graph look pretty insignificant!

have to agree,

1500hp AWD GTR to run 8's or a 800hp Torana/Capri/Cortina etc that you could build for less than the purchace price of a standard GTR.

But the fact that it took 15-20 years for them to get street Supra's in the 8's is a testamant to how far turbo tech and espesially the US outlook on "imports" has come in the last few years.

In comparison a Carbon Clad R35 would weigh 1650kgs wet?, maybe less?, that is similar to a steel JZA80 which has 800cc less engine, RWD and a less than fantastic rear end for drag racing, most of the Supra guys in teh 8's are making similar power, give or take a handfull, but either using 3 speed autos or the 6 speed manual and a clutch pedal

and I have completely forgotten where I was going with this......

By that logic why don't we all just sell our skylines/gtr's and buy go carts? Afterall they'll be better at everything.

No, by that logic you'll have the perfect drag strip weapon, which was the original point. I'm not sure where you're going with go karts.

How is it perfect for the strip? It's a heavy cornering machine from the factory. In a straight line it'll get done by plenty of RWD cars with less power. Not saying you won't take your share of victories with the thing, but you're not going to be taking any titles or records outside of other heavy AWD cars / fellow GTRs. I don't see any AWD doorslammers, do you? Anyway, really cool car and that dyno graph makes your average graph look pretty insignificant!

But not by any street legal cars with 18" wheels and street tyres.

The difference is simple, The gtr can probably go get the milk. Show me an 8 second door slammer and I'll show you a car that has been tubbed, laddered and gutted to the extreme.

RWD will always be the ultimate drag platform but that doesnt stop this thing from being a 1/4 mile monster. And can drive to and from the drag strip would be my guess.

Uhhhm....No there isnt. Get over it Zeb. An 8 second toracomofal is a dog to drive. Not even that good actually, and its probably had the cost of the gtr spent on it to make it an 8 second turd that cant stop or turn a corner.

Just respect this GTR fr what it is wether you agree with the american 1/4 mile philosophy or not. It is One amazingly quick machine.

The difference is simple, The gtr can probably go get the milk. Show me an 8 second door slammer and I'll show you a car that has been tubbed, laddered and gutted to the extreme.

RWD will always be the ultimate drag platform but that doesnt stop this thing from being a 1/4 mile monster. And can drive to and from the drag strip would be my guess.

I'm still not seeing the point...nowhere has anyone said this car isn't cool or fast or capable of doing more than just racing...simply that it's not going to dominate at the drag strip when it comes up against the big boys, ergo is not the perfect drag strip weapon. When grocery shopping becomes part of race scrutineering I might agree with you, until then, it's purpose built cars ftw. Nissan fanbois seem to get a bee in their bonnet when people tell them that a Nissan can't be the best at something :/

You cant see the point in building A mega quick awd car. Praps you better go shit can everyone who drag races in any class under top fuel. According to your logic that is the only class that counts.

In a country where 1/4 mile times are bragging rights to the max I can totally understand some guy wanting the toughest awd rights out there.

Fanboi. I dont think so, I think the 35 looks like a bucket of busted mud crabs, would I own one. No. Never have an ugly car. :thumbsup: but I stand in awe at its achievments.

No, I just can't see the point to you talking about how streetable this GTR is, when someone termed it the "perfect weapon for the drag strip" and all I did was disagree with this. I'm not shit canning any racing or car, not even this car. I dig and appreciate how fast it is. I'm just saying that "perfect weapon for the drag strip" is a title you might want to reserve for, say, something that actually beats Mario in his 7 second RX3 with a dirty old 20B.

Uhhhm....No there isnt. Get over it Zeb. An 8 second toracomofal is a dog to drive. Not even that good actually, and its probably had the cost of the gtr spent on it to make it an 8 second turd that cant stop or turn a corner.

Just respect this GTR fr what it is wether you agree with the american 1/4 mile philosophy or not. It is One amazingly quick machine.

Ye but it's horses for courses

And I love driving my mates angry v8s

Yes it is fast. But it would want to be for the amount of money thrown at it. Then compare what that would cost vs building an 8 sec supra or what ever

That is where it loses it's appeal to me

Glad you still think they are the most f**k ugly thing in the history of late model f**k ugly things lol

Ye but it's horses for courses

And I love driving my mates angry v8s

Yes it is fast. But it would want to be for the amount of money thrown at it. Then compare what that would cost vs building an 8 sec supra or what ever

That is where it loses it's appeal to me

Glad you still think they are the most f**k ugly thing in the history of late model f**k ugly things lol

Only a supra is uglier Zeb. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...