Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying Skylines - Stock V Modified - The Pros And Cons

jukic.j
 Share

Recommended Posts

jukic.j Rising Star

jukic.j

Posted
Posted (edited)

What I am trying to figure out and have been unable to determine which is best to buy and here is some scenarios

Buy stock (non-turbo) and add a turbo then other mods (less worn engine perhaps due to no turbo?)

Buy stock (turbo) and then modify (what are the cost involved in adding a turbo system to car do they outweigh option 1)

Buy modified (Save a lot of time and money because no one makes their money back on mods)

Some of my thoughts on buying a modified car would be that i'm looking at getting in particular an R33 and this is an old car. Would it be better to have a modified car because some of the old parts have been replaced such as the turbo, suspension, brakes. Could you also though be opening yourself up to much more expensive maintenance and repair through the mods?

Generally I don't think I want to sink a lot of money into mods for an R33 because I want to be saving more cash and trading up my first skyline for an R34 and then repeating that for an R35. So this kind of makes me lean towards buying modified cars so that I can have fun in some powerful cars without losing all the money on mods?

I think this could be a good topic for future potential buyers and would like to develop this into an article over time. Help me out and list ALLLL the pros and cons you can think of :D

Edited by jukic.j
045HOW Mentor

045HOW

Posted
Posted

Well you can throw option 1 in the bin and if you don't want to do that i hope someone forces you to eat it. Enough said. Money will end up in that bin if the idea doesn't.

And the basic answer is you should buy modified as you are buying someone elses money pit instead of creating your own. Its an old car and most are thrashed regardless of mods or not. So why not go with a modified car that has had some things replaced. But you have to be smart and have the right mechanics look over these cars because you could pick any option and end up f**ked if you didn't have it looked over properly and you bought a lemon.

Also there isn't too much of a difference i price between a quality modified 33 and a quality modified 34. Just save your money and buy a 34 if that's what you want. No point in spending money on a 33 that will definitely be worth less than you payed just to go and buy a 34 later on.

Remove your signature. You sound like a f**khead,but considering you wrote it im of the opinion that you actually are.

jukic.j Rising Star

jukic.j

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well you can throw option 1 in the bin and if you don't want to do that i hope someone forces you to eat it. Enough said. Money will end up in that bin if the idea doesn't.

And the basic answer is you should buy modified as you are buying someone elses money pit instead of creating your own. Its an old car and most are thrashed regardless of mods or not. So why not go with a modified car that has had some things replaced. But you have to be smart and have the right mechanics look over these cars because you could pick any option and end up f**ked if you didn't have it looked over properly and you bought a lemon.

Also there isn't too much of a difference i price between a quality modified 33 and a quality modified 34. Just save your money and buy a 34 if that's what you want. No point in spending money on a 33 that will definitely be worth less than you payed just to go and buy a 34 later on.

Remove your signature. You sound like a f**khead,but considering you wrote it im of the opinion that you actually are.

Ok I struck out option 1 rather than removing it so people know which option you are referring to.

So by the right mechanics do you mean someone like state roads I have seen them recommended a lot or someone particular to imports or skylines or modified cars? What kind of checks does the right mechanic do? Compression/leak-down/dyno what about things like rust? is this covered in paid inspections?

Also it might have helped to know that i'm probably looking at $8,000 - $10,000 for my first skyline hence R33 and then making the jump whatever it may be to R34 which will be probably double budget and then R35 which will be a significant jump.

I re-worded my signature is that better?

Edited by jukic.j
045HOW Mentor

045HOW

Posted
Posted

Ok I struck out option 1 rather than removing it so people know which option you are referring to.

So by the right mechanics do you mean someone like state roads I have seen them recommended a lot or someone particular to imports or skylines or modified cars? What kind of checks does the right mechanic do? Compression/leak-down/dyno what about things like rust? is this covered in paid inspections?

Also it might have helped to know that i'm probably looking at $8,000 - $10,000 for my first skyline hence R33 and then making the jump whatever it may be to R34 which will be probably double budget and then R35 which will be a significant jump.

I re-worded my signature is that better?

I mean anyone qualified or Capable of looking over the whole car and engine and telling you exactly whats what. Not fool-proof but definitely a must.

And if you have 8-10k and want a 34 then why not save 5 more and buy a shmick 34 with better everything from chassis to engine.

And yes that signature is much better. Its fine and reasonable.

adamskill Mentor

adamskill

Posted
Posted

Ok I struck out option 1 rather than removing it so people know which option you are referring to.

So by the right mechanics do you mean someone like state roads I have seen them recommended a lot or someone particular to imports or skylines or modified cars? What kind of checks does the right mechanic do? Compression/leak-down/dyno what about things like rust? is this covered in paid inspections?

Also it might have helped to know that i'm probably looking at $8,000 - $10,000 for my first skyline hence R33 and then making the jump whatever it may be to R34 which will be probably double budget and then R35 which will be a significant jump.

I re-worded my signature is that better?

Ok, this is giving me a nose bleed...

IF you can even entertain the thought of purchasing an R35, that why the fuck would you waste your time and money buying an R33, just to sell it (and loose plenty of dollars) in, say, a year or 2 time, then buy an R34??

JUST BUY AN R34!

It is so obvious that you are new to modified cars. You do not NEED to buy a modified skyline as your first one. Buy a stock one, they are still great fun and shit on many cars. I enjoyed my first skyline in stock trim for over a year until I started modding it. It gives you a great chance to get to know your car, and not get behind the wheel of a car you may not be ready for.

So my advice is..

Search around for a nice STOCK R34, and start from there. you will get one for just a wee bit more than an R33 anyway.

Learn in it. have fun in it. enjoy paying heaps to insure it. THEN, IF you want to spend some money to mod it, go for it, OR just sell it for the $12k you bought it for, and with the $100k you have in that shoebox under your bed, go buy your R35 ya muppet.

ecliptor Enthusiast

ecliptor

Posted
Posted

What I am trying to figure out and have been unable to determine which is best to buy and here is some scenarios

Buy stock (non-turbo) and add a turbo then other mods (less worn engine perhaps due to no turbo?)

Buy stock (turbo) and then modify (what are the cost involved in adding a turbo system to car do they outweigh option 1)

Buy modified (Save a lot of time and money because no one makes their money back on mods)

Some of my thoughts on buying a modified car would be that i'm looking at getting in particular an R33 and this is an old car. Would it be better to have a modified car because some of the old parts have been replaced such as the turbo, suspension, brakes. Could you also though be opening yourself up to much more expensive maintenance and repair through the mods?

Generally I don't think I want to sink a lot of money into mods for an R33 because I want to be saving more cash and trading up my first skyline for an R34 and then repeating that for an R35. So this kind of makes me lean towards buying modified cars so that I can have fun in some powerful cars without losing all the money on mods?

I think this could be a good topic for future potential buyers and would like to develop this into an article over time. Help me out and list ALLLL the pros and cons you can think of :D

I hope you know that a R35 is not a Skyline, a V35 is but not a R35.

My advice is to either go buy a stock R33 and enjoy it or go buy a R34 if thats the car you really want - unless you really do have $180k + to buy a new R35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...