Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did Nissan ever make an OEM car cover for either the R32 or R32 GTR specifically? If so does anyone have the part number? Know where I can buy/order one?

If Nissan didn't make one or they can no longer be found are there any other manufacturers that make R32 or R32 GTR specific car covers?

Thanks,

Carthik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394900-oem-nissan-r32-gtr-car-cover/
Share on other sites

Do a search, maybe on GTROC UK forums.

There's a few in the UK who make them from memory and price is not that bad. But not sure about delivery.

They seem to be more needed in the UK with the whether compared to here

Unfortunately good things aren't cheap but Covercraft are the best covers by a country mile.

I bought an indoor one for my other car nearly 5 years ago and it has kept its shape after 2 washes per year.

It's soft, doesn't scratch the paintwork and is very easy to put on and take off.

The yellow one pictured below is a CoverKing cover and its crap by comparison. The only reason I got it was Covercraft don't do yellow and that was the colour of my M3.

Expect to pay about $517.00....... I will get one for my ADM R32 but all my money's going into my JDM at the moment.

Here's a link....... http://www.covercraf...oor_covers.html

Screenprint below.

Cheers,

Bob.

post-78207-0-06668200-1332053936_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-30971500-1332053942_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-14020300-1332053967_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-19145700-1332054416_thumb.jpg

nothing but the best microfibre will stop scratches and that's ONLY if the cover goes on STRAIGHT after you've washed it. If you've driven it even on a sunny day and put it in the garage, hello scratchville, especially those fitted ones because there is just so much more contact with the car. Do you have to stretch it to fit?

And if you look in some parts, some of it is touching tyres... you take it off, dirt/grit would get stuck in the fibre, which when you fold it up will be dispersed around the rest of the underside and then you put it back over the car .... *shudders*

car covers are nasty things, and really don't see any need for a cover. If you put it on after you've driven it, you'll scratch it. If you put it on straight after you've washed it, it will be near impossible to make sure the cover is debris free and would have to be stored very well whilst it's off the car. Plus all these materials it's made out of will scratch paint, ESPECIALLY soft clear coated japanese vehicles. The cerami clear euro's not as much, but as JDM owners don't have that luxury.

and if it's an outside car, you've got wind to take into account which will induce even more swirling/marring and still provide no protection if a bird craps on it etc as that will still come through the fabric.

If these cars aren't washed every time before putting on these car covers, it's a waste of time (and even then, the fabric used will still swirl/marr). Just put down a really good long lasting sealant, layered it if you want. Top with a few layers of a nice carnauba wax for a bit more depth, maintain with a QD after washes and you'll be fine. No scratches, and super easy maintenance due to the great washing characteristics. My GTR is maintained like this, lives in the garage, sometimes doesn't get driven for a few weeks, and even if it does, dust is NEVER an issue sitting idle. Would never put a car cover on in a million years. That's what the garage is for. And if you're outside, that's what a good sealant is for.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...