Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm more after response then outright power, I'm happy with the power atm just want it to come on sooner (of course making power will be a bonus :D) . Hrmm so you think getting a bigger exhaust system will help in response? I would of thought it would of been the opposite? Correct me if I'm wrong please.

Here are my mods:

R33 Block

-N1 Crank

-Forge Pistons

-Forge Rods

-Race Bearings

-Head & MainStuds

-N1 water and oil pumps

Garrett 2860-5

HKS dump pipes and front pipes

Hi flow cat

HKS Hi Power Silent Exhaust (According to their website its is 95mm 3.7")

Tomei camshafts

Mine's adjustable cam gears

Sard intank Fuel pump

SARD Fuel Rail + Fuel Pressure Regulator

SARD 700cc Fuel Injectors

Haltech Platinum PRO

110mm thick intercooler

HKS intercooler hard pipe kit

If there is any kind of restriction then yes having the right size exhaust will help with response,

cam gears can be dialed in for response if thats what ur really chasing

usually an intercooler that thick isnt required and probs isnt helping with response but its there now so leave it :thumbsup:

also i would suggest doing the twin turbo pipe modification as well which will help with response and power by reducing turbulance... PM me if your keen for more info and i can supply it or i can modify the one u have :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Measure the exhaust at it smallest (might be in the muffler). If you need/get a bigger one it definitely won't harm your response - a big single definitely will.

If the exhaust is ok (or replaced) just turn up the boost untill it stops making power or runs out of fuel (don't know what the Sard pumps are good for). Why did your tuner not want to turn up the boost? You will need to spend some $$ for dyno time to get the right cam settings.

Full Boost @ 4900rpm. 20PSI is what my tuner says its safe I don't want to push anymore then that on 98octane. Will I require upgrade fuel setup if I run 20psi on the GTX? currently running an intank SARD fuel pump.

You should have 20psi in by 4000-4200rpm. Not 4900rpm, no way my -5s are that laggy on my 2.6l

Clearly your set-up needs better boost control and/or tuning.

Mine isn't fully tuned and I'm running a completely different set up mate

Full race twin scroll with a 83/75 BG

Mine made 25psi at 3450 but the waste gates were stuck closed cause they are new..

Though that is with old fuel and cam gears set at 0

Results will be posted soon, hard to compare atm, but our turbo set ups have close to the potential power

Just because u have a hks exhaust doesn't mean that its flowing properly

Also talk to your tuner about setting up the cam gears and let us know

The result

haha 20psi at 3500rpm ??? dreaming! lol

my gt35 on my stock rb26 hits 20psi at 4400rpm and thats with a 1bar spring, it could possibly come down to 4200 or so with a 20psi spring setup in the wastegate, im also running poncams

^ Totally agree, especially with a GTX - I keep meaning to come in to add that 2c. RB25 and RB26 don't spool turbos much different at all, I've actually experienced both an RB25 and RB26 with equivalent cam specs, manifolds and .82a/r GT3582Rs and they both made very similar power and hit 20psi at 4300rpm.

The GT3540 (.63 a/r) on my RB30/25 is only tuned to 15psi atm which it hits at 3,500

Will let you know how it does when it is retuned to 21 or so psi ( will have wastegate set at 18-19 and boost controller for the rest).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...