Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

i just put a Neo in My R33 GTST S1

my mate think the r33 S1 ecu will not work

need info on how to wire R34 coilpacks to R33 S1 loom

and looking for anyone on what i should do or look out for

and what ways should i go with loom and ecu

i got told you can bolt all r33 stuff to the Neo motor and use r33 loom

any info will be good thanks

TAHNKS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395631-puttng-neo-in-my-r33-s1/
Share on other sites

Dude do yourself a favor and buy a R34 RB25det neo ECU+loom.

Why root around buying series 1 and 2 RB25det parts for your NEO engine? Neo loom and ecu is a direct plug and play with minor modification.

Dude do yourself a favor and buy a R34 RB25det neo ECU+loom.<br><br>Why root around buying series 1 and 2 RB25det parts for your NEO engine? Neo loom and ecu is a direct plug and play with minor modification.<br>

Dude do yourself a favor and buy a R34 RB25det neo ECU+loom.

Why root around buying series 1 and 2 RB25det parts for your NEO engine? Neo loom and ecu is a direct plug and play with minor modification.

its a direct plug and play into the engine yes but not the car, you would have to wire the neo loom to the car, not difficult if you know what your doing.

but you have a point.. it will give a better result. you can then use the nistune on the 34 ecu also

Dude do yourself a favor and buy a R34 RB25det neo ECU+loom.<br><br>Why root around buying series 1 and 2 RB25det parts for your NEO engine? Neo loom and ecu is a direct plug and play with minor modification.<br>

R34 loom as to be wired in to your dash loom

so many people have done NEO swaps and still use there own Loom

need more info guys...will R33 S1 power NEO motor ? and will RB20 nisstune power a NEO ? and putting in R34 loom and ECU in R33 S1 gtst what will be need to be done to make all of it work ? need as much info guys plz thanks

S1 loom uses a separate ignitor this wont work with the neo coils and you wont be able to fit s1 coilpacks in there. So the EASIEST way to make it all work would be to run a Series 2 RB25 loom, it will plug into your 33 no worries, gets rid of the ignitor and then you can run neo coil packs. The RB20 ecu will run it no worries.

Adapting the neo loom and running the neo ecu with a nistune would give a better overall result but at the expense of more work since theres a fair bit of rewiring to make the neo loom fit your r33.

yes you can still use all those things HOWEVER making the abs work will be very time consuming.

just get a s2 R33 loom

i have the s2 coilpack plug to go to the ecu loom so cant i use the r33 s1 loom and wire that s2 plug on there ?

  • 11 years later...

He was last active nearly 10 years ago. Thread necro no likely worky worky.

The best advice is clear out all the old crap, use an aftermarket ECU, build a complete new loom from scratch.

The next best advice is use an R34 engine loom & ECU, adapt it where necessary to mate to the R33 body loom. Then at least you have a Nistunable ECU.

The worst idea is to keep any of the R33 stuff.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...