Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Hub Bore / Centre Measurement

Ronin 09
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

Need to get some hub centric rings for the GTR.

Can anyone confirm that the stock GTR32 hub bore is a 60.1mm?

While I'm here, can anyone also confirm that Rays CE28s are a 73.1mm bore?

I'm assuming that the hub centric rings are to locate/centre the bore only?

Lastly, will any alloy hub centric ring be ok? There are also nylon/plastic ones but I would have thought the alloy ones would be better.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395735-r32-gtr-hub-bore-centre-measurement/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

You can easily measure your hubs. I would have thought they were 66.1

My Rays TE37 are 73.1 centre bore

I used two pairs of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-459726777.htm

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You can easily measure your hubs. I would have thought they were 66.1

My Rays TE37 are 73.1 centre bore

I used two pairs of these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/auction-459726777.htm

Thanks KiwiRS4T. I think you're right, I misread it 66.1 (too lazy to take wheel off and measure the hub).

Cheers

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it.

Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it.

Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

thanks duncan

i'm getting some alloy ones from japan - kics kyo-ei (!?) hopefully they have the taper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...