Jump to content
SAU Community

S15 Vs R34

Trizor

By Trizor,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's easy to stir this pot.

N/A skylines are shit and slow and will be eaten by a commonwhore.

*runs away and jumps in his 33 gtr because he knows that no p plater in a N/A skyline will catch him (except for a sss pulsar because sss pulsar > my gtr)*

Edited by eat_me
JDMR-33 Rookie

JDMR-33

Posted
Posted

I know the n/a skylines are no performance car, plus trying to get huge amounts of power out of any p plate car isnt the smartest idea (5 points dont last long)..

i drive a non turbo R33 being a p plater and almost every one of my freinds has hung shit on it until they have been in it.. All of my freinds have commodores and one of them even sold his and bought an n/a skyline after driving mine..

I picked my car up for $4800 with rego and rwc.. and it drives 10 times better than any of my previous cars (celica, calais, statesman ect..) point being that even though they may not be as powerful as the turbo ones i dont see why p platers should be criticised against and called posers for driving the cars they have a passion for.. and in my opinion having owned both of them most japanese cars turbo or not are a lot better built and nicer to drive than your average commodore

And just to set the record straight, i have run against a few of my mates with commodores including a worked vs manual, vt and vy s pac and not one of them could keep up.. my car is bog stock except for a cat back..

sorry about the rant.. thats just my 2 cents

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

N/A 20B PP

2 litres, no turbo, big power.

Yeah, I went there.

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

20B = 2L ?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

I know the n/a skylines are no performance car, plus trying to get huge amounts of power out of any p plate car isnt the smartest idea (5 points dont last long)..

i drive a non turbo R33 being a p plater and almost every one of my freinds has hung shit on it until they have been in it.. All of my freinds have commodores and one of them even sold his and bought an n/a skyline after driving mine..

I picked my car up for $4800 with rego and rwc.. and it drives 10 times better than any of my previous cars (celica, calais, statesman ect..) point being that even though they may not be as powerful as the turbo ones i dont see why p platers should be criticised against and called posers for driving the cars they have a passion for.. and in my opinion having owned both of them most japanese cars turbo or not are a lot better built and nicer to drive than your average commodore

And just to set the record straight, i have run against a few of my mates with commodores including a worked vs manual, vt and vy s pac and not one of them could keep up.. my car is bog stock except for a cat back..

sorry about the rant.. thats just my 2 cents

well either they have massive amounts of kms on the engine and are flogged out (possibly flogged out auto gearboxes), or your mates can't drive. in healthy condition and driven decently they would beat you.

as for the SSS, most people on here know my feelings about them, lol.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

I just don't get P platers and insisting on skylines or silvias etc.

take the blinkers off your eyes mate.

go have a drive in a Renault Sport Clio 172.

1050kg

124kw

leather bolstered seats

xenon head lights

throw it in to a corner or 2 and see if you an even remember what a non turbo skyline or silvia is.

that is just one example of many good cars for P platers.

Unless you want to pose.. then my post is of no use to you.

Mine is alright. Bought it off Karl Ryndler (V8 supercar driver).

Has a group N ecu and an exhaust, factory everything else.

By numbers it's a rockin' P plater car;

1) Mine Did 14.2 sec 1/4 mile at the motorplex (consistant 14.3's), and that's not even it's performance strength

2) goes around corners

3) Stops better than the Porsche 911 of the same year from the factory

4) no police attention

5) Safety features all round

6) rear seats come out in within 1 min due to clear design.

7) bolt in cage easy to obtain for track weekends

8) very light weight means track days are cheap

9) 6.8L / 100 km around town ecconomy

No N/A skyline/Silvia will touch it. At the drags even most of the turbo ones were slower on the night ha ha...

Super Drager Mentor

Super Drager

Posted
Posted

Mine is alright. Bought it off Karl Ryndler (V8 supercar driver).

Has a group N ecu and an exhaust, factory everything else.

By numbers it's a rockin' P plater car;

1) Mine Did 14.2 sec 1/4 mile at the motorplex (consistant 14.3's), and that's not even it's performance strength

2) goes around corners

3) Stops better than the Porsche 911 of the same year from the factory

4) no police attention

5) Safety features all round

6) rear seats come out in within 1 min due to clear design.

7) bolt in cage easy to obtain for track weekends

8) very light weight means track days are cheap

9) 6.8L / 100 km around town ecconomy

No N/A skyline/Silvia will touch it. At the drags even most of the turbo ones were slower on the night ha ha...

+1 for Clio's, my mate had one bog stock on semi slicks and around corners was the fastest car i've been in :worship: in first, second and a little bit of third it use to stay level with my cousins 200rwkw R33.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

+1 , knew it

You know nothing.

You said they run 14s. There's a massive difference between a "15" second car and a 14 second car.

And if it was a 15.9 then you didn't know it. No mention of what, if any mods were done to the "15" second car. You claimed stockos do 14s. They do not. Flat 16s, maybe a high 15 is what they will do stock. Do the usual mods, exhaust and CAI and you might see a mid to low 15, maybe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...