Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ail just wondering if anyone else has has spark related issues when running a haltech. Yesterday we tried tuning my car which has new plugs and brand new spitfires and it didn't matter how we gapped the plugs or set the dwell we had a major miss at anything over 12 psi and 4000 rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396398-spark-issues-and-haltech/
Share on other sites

You have a neo engine? A lot of aftermarket ecus have problems at the upper end apparently caused by the R34 CAS. Is yours still stock in this area? There are a number of solutions - Ross make one I don't know if Unigroup has another - in NZ a few tuners have developed their own triggering systems for the R34.

Try turning of all acceleration enrichment as well. Have you check that you have proper timing control throughout the entire rev range. Set the timing at 20deg check it all the way to 7000 on a static rev and make sure it's rock solid then do the same with 40degrees.

Ps isn't the r34 signal a 360deg signal and a 654321 narrowing signal? I'm not aware of any differences between r32 to r34 in terms of signals it's just the wiring at the cas is reversed.

  • 2 weeks later...

cant believe no one has concrete info on this.. haltech dont want to acknowledge a fault.. thing is im wondering if spitfires just cant handle running in wasted spark.

got a new MSD set up now.. spark is huge at idle.. should be interesting to see how it goes now

cant believe no one has concrete info on this.. haltech dont want to acknowledge a fault.. thing is im wondering if spitfires just cant handle running in wasted spark.

got a new MSD set up now.. spark is huge at idle.. should be interesting to see how it goes now

I can't recall running those coils in wasted spark configuration. But Holden seem to run a single coil v8 to 6200rpm no problem with a coil that takes simulate dwell =2.5 ms.

At 4000 rpm in wasted spark with 2.5ms dwell time your only at 16% duty as in on time of 2.5 off time off time 12.5ms - hardly working a coil IMO.

My bet is still the haltech.

Edited by rob82

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...