Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I went to the pit last friday.. Change everything back to stock, stock exhaust, stock suspension, stock everything basically..

But u know them, they can always find something, so heres what I get done for..

1. Well secured Pod Filter

I heard that this is a grey area in the pits.. Some inspector would say yes and some wouldnt..

2. Steering pulling to the left

WA suspension checked this when I told them its pulling to the left before wheel alignment and they say thats normal

3. Not having a heater that acts as a demister

I bypassed my heater core since its leaking.. but for all I know you'd have a mist on your windscreen when the air inside is hotter than the air outside, ie. winter nights or rainy days, Ive checked this in my other car too and it is blowing cold air to remove mist (not hot air)..

Ive check the document on DOT website and it says modifications on airconditioning system falls into "mods that dont require an approval"

I was just wondering what do people do in situations like this? cause I feel like they're just making stuff up..

I mean, considering the girl who has her van inspected before me, were asked to drive the inspector back to paperwork area (other side of pit, welshpool) and that was the "road test" where as with mine "road test" involved 5 min drive outside the DOT complex plus picking up another fellow inspector and another 10 minutes drive..

And no! I cant sit in the car while they're driving, which is probably because I havent got my hot pants on nor my boobs are hanging out my top!

Any help or pointer would be much appreciated..

Cheers

bly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396680-vehicle-examination-help/
Share on other sites

If that was your first time at the pits with this sticker then don't worry about it mate.

I went over the pits 3 times and my car was pretty close to stock but they just kept on picking little niggly things like rear wipers etc etc. It's not technically their job to make our lives hard but if they are having a shit day then it makes them feel better about themselves. I know that if I worked at the pits every man and his dog with a low falcadore and 20 inch chrome rims would never ever passed simply because I'm an arsehole and don't like them.

I have no idea about your car but mine is a yellow sticker attracter.And that's the way that I want it. (not attracting yellow stickers but you get the idea)

As for the pod filter I took a nice trip down to bunnings and spent about $25 on some 5mm ally bar. Drilled some holes in it and then bent it so it fitted into the holes for the pod->afm and then where there used to be the stock air box. I made sure there was two mounting points for the ally bar and it felt sturdy when you grabbed it.

It's unfortunate that we all seem to get yellow stickers and "harrassed" by the police but that's the way it is and I don't see it changing any time soon unless someone decides to blow up the ACA and Today Tonight studios.

My 2c Billy and if you need any help and live NOR then I'm more than happy to give you a hand. Send me a PM and I'll give you my number so we can have super sexy pit preparation time.

Mitch

So I went to the pit last friday.. Change everything back to stock, stock exhaust, stock suspension, stock everything basically..

But u know them, they can always find something, so heres what I get done for..

1. Well secured Pod Filter

I heard that this is a grey area in the pits.. Some inspector would say yes and some wouldnt..

2. Steering pulling to the left

WA suspension checked this when I told them its pulling to the left before wheel alignment and they say thats normal

3. Not having a heater that acts as a demister

I bypassed my heater core since its leaking.. but for all I know you'd have a mist on your windscreen when the air inside is hotter than the air outside, ie. winter nights or rainy days, Ive checked this in my other car too and it is blowing cold air to remove mist (not hot air)..

Ive check the document on DOT website and it says modifications on airconditioning system falls into "mods that dont require an approval"

I was just wondering what do people do in situations like this? cause I feel like they're just making stuff up..

I mean, considering the girl who has her van inspected before me, were asked to drive the inspector back to paperwork area (other side of pit, welshpool) and that was the "road test" where as with mine "road test" involved 5 min drive outside the DOT complex plus picking up another fellow inspector and another 10 minutes drive..

And no! I cant sit in the car while they're driving, which is probably because I havent got my hot pants on nor my boobs are hanging out my top!

Any help or pointer would be much appreciated..

Cheers

bly

have you considered not taking it to a DOT inspection complex? . .. .there is a listing somewhere on the WA section that you can take your car to

Once you have your vehicle inspected by a workshop, and they give you a further improvment notice. You have to go back there until the sticker is taken off.

Next time it might pay to go somewhere else

thanks for the reply guys.. that is my plan, to just get it to the approved inspection station.. any skyline's friendly station that you guys may know?

As for mitch, PM sent.. Check ur inbox please..

^^ this. Pits second time round is easy if you fix the stuff they want. They only check those area`s.

As for the test drive they cant stop you from going with them, it`s your car!

My times over the pits were easy all i changed was my bonnet and raised my coilovers and they were happy.

I think you just got a bad draw. :\

So I went to one of the approved mechanics on friday without any changes.. and guess what they passed it all except for the pod filter, they offered to pass me if I come back with stock airbox in the same day.. and consequently passed me the next day after I installed stock airbox (kudos to voncina).

they are really nice, as long as you rock up with something that isnt illegal and not acting like a prick, they would actually listen to your argument and decide on that, really helpful people imo..

just a heads up, apparently new rule on pods so called "minor" mods, not matter how minor you have to have a permit as per april 2012..

from now on I will keep my stock exhaust and suspension..

cheers for all the help and reply guys..

just a heads up, apparently new rule on pods so called "minor" mods, not matter how minor you have to have a permit as per april 2012..

I better go & find my stock air box in the garage then...

You've needed a permit for them anyway, but in most cases they leave it alone because as said it's pretty minor. If the police use that to their advantage & sticker every car with a pod filter but no permit, then that will just be a complete dog act

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...