Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a snake thats living under the plenum.

Send an Owl to Harry Potter and ask him to translate, he can speak Parseltongue.

Have you tried increasing the revs a bit to see if it does it above idle? Change the hose on the FPR?

Maybe post a video. Cars make all sorts of noises and people describe them differently so its hard to E-Mechanic it. But my stock injectors and my Nismo ones definitely dont hiss at all at idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396689-hissing/#findComment-6300192
Share on other sites

There is a PCV hose that is plumbed into the rocker cover near the front of the plenum. It is connected via a push-in one-way valve.

Mine sometimes has a hiss from there- maybe have a look at that? Might have dislodged it/damaged it when replacing injectors.

If not, shoot it with a 12 gauge but leave one in the pipe in case the snakes are hunting in pairs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396689-hissing/#findComment-6300580
Share on other sites

I checked the lines and cant find the point of the hissing.

Might rig up some ear muffs with a hose on the end to pinpoint it.

Hermione rocked my world last night I just sent her to your place via platform 9 and 3 quarters.

Ohh and Game Of Thrones is an epic story of knights & dragons etc.

Recommend it heavily

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396689-hissing/#findComment-6301009
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...