Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Bought some new wheels for my 32 gts-t, 18x9.5+23 and +15 they are on brand new 225/40/18 rubber

The +23 go on the front no worries at all, but the +15 on the rear is not even close to fitting haha, the guards need to be flared.

So im after preferably someone in south east SA, but adelaide is fine as well. It doesnt bother me if its a shop or a cash job by someone on here, all i need is the guards flared and to look nice, i understand the paint will probably crack/peel off and thats okay, just as long as the guards are flared well and aren't rippled etc.

Let me know ASAP, thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/
Share on other sites

Really

is it school holidays already!!!! Dont they teach how to read or use a computer !! Read the SA section just about 5 lines down notice the tag line " guard rolling ?"

FFS

Welcome to SA-U

Yes, it is school holidays in South Australia. Does who teach me to use a computer? I read it, and my guards are rolled, i need them flared.

And thankyou!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6305769
Share on other sites

Go figure

Watch the youtube video on how to make flairs on R32

A fellow SA sau made some for her car

(customimports tv )

Add more camber and it just eats up your tyres on the street better yet just buy rims that fit or some widebody fenders?

225 is narrow as fark ??? 18x 245 fit my fronts and 295 fit rears easy 305 would but they cost to much , never hit anything even on full lock ? legal height and proper alignment , offset makes the difference !!

How low is the car ? if its mad low "cause it looks cool " maybe you should bring it up to legal ?? the roads in SA suck to much to run a car super low your just going to eat the parts off the car or loose control when it binds on the bumpstops on the throttle /pothole and flings the car into a tree backwards?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6306101
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

How low is the car ? if its mad low "cause it looks cool " maybe you should bring it up to legal ?? the roads in SA suck to much to run a car super low your just going to eat the parts off the car or loose control when it binds on the bumpstops on the throttle /pothole and flings the car into a tree backwards?

really? do you work for our government/police?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6323995
Share on other sites

Gee ive never had offset or flaired gaurds , old cars always had to be flaired !!!

We couldnt get rims back then without mad dish!!

Grow up some of have had the experience of wheels ripping a fender off or a fender cutting a tire in half when you floor it on old big block cars squating down

I can tell you how to flair in metal, fiberglass, carbon, cardboard and bog, or jeep cj 5 rubber flairs screwed on , or baseball bat rollout flair , ghetto to show car

So i'll leave it to all you" know it alls "to f**k up or "pay someone cause you have no skills except keyboard warrior

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6324317
Share on other sites

Thanks jet, im sure the ford on slicks would squat a fair bit to hook up

try a datto 1200 coupe with 12" tall narrow bike rims stock going to z car scca trans am spec dish , it took a lot of flair to bring it up to race spec slicks 10" wide on front and rears , all dish

Ramming rear tyres into gaurds can lock them up , what happen when the rear tyres lock when you jam up the handbrake , it goes backwards in split second unless you know car control ( not part of aussie driving test ) or the skills of a lot of drivers

Silly thing is khali ( customtv )did her 32.4 rear guards and its on youtube as i pointed out ?? not saying anything about quality but its functional and at least she stepped up to do her own !!

But if not drop the keys off and pay someone to do it , anyone can do that if you have money !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6324446
Share on other sites

Looks like i sparked some debate :P

Excuse the wording in my original reply, but come on, bit harsh on new people guys... Troy, i know you've had your fair share from previous posts over last few years I've read on here but that doesn't mean you should put people getting in to cars down for it. The guy wouldn't be asking if he was well full ready and capable of doing it himself... yes there's the search function, yes there's probably another 3 threads about it in the first few pages but hes probably excited about his new wheels and wanted a quick straight up answer, cant blame him for that. Could have just put a link up for him and left it at that.

As far as the experience of wheels/tyres tearing off, obviously made the mistake once and learned from it, how about telling him how to do it properly then instead of name calling, having a go at him and preaching about legalities. And btw, I mean to say this in the nicest way possible, I dont mean to offend but seriously theres nothing positive on these forums anymore.

As far as your link suggestion goes, I don't even want to start... ill leave it at that.

Ive PM'd him asking for some details so I can point him in the right direction as to what he needs done. Every car is different and every wheel size/offset/tyre is different in its application so for all we know without seeing where hes at, is he might need a small pull on the guard, better tyre option and a slight tweak to the suspension... having a few threads about it is probably a good thing as it covers a variety of fitments and solutions, one guy having his wheels fitted in one way might not work for someone else with a different car.

As for people being smart, I leave you with this...

18x12 -4, 265/35 1.8deg camber on r33 gtst guards pulled, shaped and flared 30mm. No fiberglass, no plastic, no cutting, no welding, no negative million camber and most importantly no scrubbing, rubbing or hitting under full compression. (And also because that car is now stripped in pieces, and I miss it, and I want to post photos of it :P)

th_newcoilies4.jpg

Enjoy. :cheers:

Edited by SkyHi_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6325238
Share on other sites

Thanks mate ,im not the post nazi lol just pmt during school holidays

I love dish and flairs , wish i could run massive width and crossfactory widebody my car , i hate ADR rules and how they get promoted while crims run the street

(but seems to be a bit better maybe its just me)

and promote people doing something to cars that is unique and not follow the sheep on cosmetic mods

And had friends who hacked up cars and nearly die from the mistakes of lowered car versus no bumpstops or room for tyres to move up

Every car is different config but in the end the pricipal result is the same when

Tyres hit the end of travel rapidly on a solid object

I guess i thought he sounded like a guard roll not a flair job , and guard roll was still only a few lines down

My apologies if i offended Blacks, jews, whites, asians, krishy, dogs, cats, car nuts , pizza lovers ( deep dish) and any gays , lesbians and anyone else may have missed lol

And you should keep your car , the love for it wont vanish ( thinks about all the cars i wish i still had :-( )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6325399
Share on other sites

If anyone has any experience I was thinking of going 18X11.5 rims with zero offset. It would require widening of he guards front and rear on a R33 GTR... if someone can suggest a good body shop to do the modifications?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6327263
Share on other sites

Haha, well this got serious. Thankyou SkyHi_33 for bringing some sense into this.

I have some photos here of the wheels,

zwsAG.jpg

d1wDT.jpg

3GFAI.jpg

Jyu1J.jpg

xeUoB.jpg

I have borrowed a guard roller off my mate, and will have a crack at rolling the guards tomorrow and hopefully they will flare a slight bit as well, if they dont fit then i will get someone else to have a look at it.

This is with stock struts and springs in, i will be putting my coilovers back in afterwards, and (hopefully) have it siting fairly low, the guard about 10-20mm above the rim if possible, if not i will have it higher.

It's not as bad as a first thought, with a bit of camber and a slight flair with the roller i think i should just be able to squeeze it under there :)

Will report back tomorrow with how the guard roller went :)

Also, that 33 is pretty much perfection! I would LOVE for my guards to look like that, but i just wouldnt have the skill to do it haha, was that achieved using a dolly and hammer set?

Thanks all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397108-guard-flaring/#findComment-6332202
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...