Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU.

Whats the go with the RB20DET's that have been converted to a Non-turbo. I know it has low compression, but i really don't have alot of time to read atm and was wondering if people could give me the run down on it? I can't really find anything that tells me what i really need to know, I just don't want to get one and then have it blow up due to it having low compression.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397136-rb20det-converted-to-na/
Share on other sites

Hey SAU.

Whats the go with the RB20DET's that have been converted to a Non-turbo. I know it has low compression, but i really don't have alot of time to read atm and was wondering if people could give me the run down on it? I can't really find anything that tells me what i really need to know, I just don't want to get one and then have it blow up due to it having low compression.

Cheers.

it wont blow from having low compression, im sure there is plenty of non turbo 20s out there, this would be easier to use than trying to convert a DET to DE specs

won't blow up from having no compression.

may blow up from having to rev it out to redline everytime you take off in order to keep up with the granny in front of you in her yaris.

the stock rb20de makes 114kw at the flywheel. a DET with no turbo would probably make about 85kw at the fly if you're lucky.

If you don't have time to research/read I'll make it very simple.

1. If your doing it for legal reasons (ie P plater can't have a turbo, found a nice cheap det and want to convert to de) - Don't do it - If a cop pulls you up and sees the engine plate says it's a turbo model, even if a turbo is not hanging off the side, you will still get done.

2. If your doing it for some other weird reason -> to be cool/different/rallying with 2lt n/a requirement - Don't do it - if you search turbo to na or det to de you will see from the people who have done it in the past, it is the most annoying car to drive in the world, marc is not exagerating, you will struggle at every set of lights just to get the car moving, you wont be able to keep up with traffic and it will run that rich you will probably only get 200kms to a tank AND you will have higher maintenance costs ie - spark plugs, oil, etc because they will foul a ton quicker.

Summary - Don't do it - find another way.

  • 2 weeks later...

It'll run fine, even the standard compression 20de's are pretty lazy and due to lead booting mow the gas more than a 25de, may blow up from super revving as people say, the auto 20de c33 I had would shift past redline at 7600 and I still couldn't get in front in merging lanes against pussers that were probably not trying that hard to stop me :domokun:

  • 4 weeks later...

upshut daniel, as much as i back natros this is just dumb. id love to see a dyno sheet of a rb20det converted to NA.. thatd be assuming it can turn the rollers lol.

*also as a side not I'm quite confident in saying that the fasterest NAs would either be gregs rb26/30 r31 with the itbs or joels caged up 33, was quick at the motorkahna anyway.

when i say NA I'm talking rb30 or smaller not like vh vq or vg engines ,think gregs made around 180kw at the treads but with a nice looking power curve, joels dosent make a lot of grunt but is fully stripped and has a fair bit of suspention work done (+ he's not a bad steerer some some of the lap speed could be from that)

How much power are we talking these cars are putting out

  • 2 months later...

Just to clear this it does work

I have r33 det converted and drives perfect probly a but Quicker then a sv6 thats with the turbo 3.5 exhaust and more the enough to have fun in

I can Take video evidence if you have douts

Runs a little rich up high in rpm usually about 5,6 thousand, but still get 450kms to tank and I have but of a lead foot

So of you wanna do it it's easily done

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...