Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Are people really trying to compare 550-580rwhp setups to a 730rwhp setup? That above plot looks damn encouraging with 300rwkws at 5,250rpm and hammer time all the way to 8,500rpm.

And mega fun....

Thanks guys.

Since I do have 5 gears it makes it around the road ok and fun to drive. I will make a few 110 oct pulls but I'm more about street power than were is the race fuel at. :no:

The race fuel result will be interesting.

No E85?

Would be interesting to see a dyno graph using 98 octaine, and E85 or C16 would be impressive.

Curious tho... I wonder how the the graph would compare using a more quality turbo like a HKS T51R SPL or Garrett GT42... Both 1000hp turbos

Tho the HKS T51r apparently spool faster than the Garrett equivalent range, HKS do use Garrett internals and have the most bad ass sounding noise but are a little out dated and cost mega $$$

Thats a twin scroll manifold, is this Precision turbo twin scroll? It doesn't say anywhere on the Precision site that it is...

So surely you would want a Twin scroll turbo for quicker spool time and to match your Full Race manifold, which looks like the Garrett GT45r would be a good match

Edited by HYBR3D

Would be interesting to see a dyno graph using 98 octaine, and E85 or C16 would be impressive.

Curious tho... I wonder how the the graph would compare using a more quality turbo like a HKS T51R SPL or Garrett GT42... Both 1000hp turbos

Tho the HKS T51r apparently spool faster than the Garrett equivalent range, HKS do use Garrett internals and have the most bad ass sounding noise but are a little out dated and cost mega $$$

Thats a twin scroll manifold, is this Precision turbo twin scroll? It doesn't say anywhere on the Precision site that it is...

So surely you would want a Twin scroll turbo for quicker spool time and to match your Full Race manifold, which looks like the Garrett GT45r would be a good match

Yes it's a twin scroll you can get both from Precision.

He's in canada, their 93 octane is our 98 octane.

I'm in the center of the USA.

guys its a Dynojet dyno, you can pretty much take 100hp off that figure comparing to the real dynos, think of it as a engine hp figure not whp.

Here in the states if you don't have a DynoJet you don't have a dyno. Not sure what you have.

Here in the states if you don't have a DynoJet you don't have a dyno. Not sure what you have.

dynojet dynos are junk, its well known the power figures are inflated. they read engine hp not whp.

"you don't have a dyno" lol we make some of the best dyno's in the world my friend. The best american dyno is a Mustang Dyno.

dynojet dynos are junk, its well known the power figures are inflated. they read engine hp not whp.

"you don't have a dyno" lol we make some of the best dyno's in the world my friend. The best american dyno is a Mustang Dyno.

What a ridiculous post, dude. For what its worth, from things I've observed so far in comparisons etc I find the Dynojets one of the most consistant and trust worthy dynos. Yes they read higher than DD (in saying that, there are heaps of people using DD dynos set up to read engine power - the results are coming out quite a bit higher than Dynojet read), but anyone with half a brain can take that into consideration - or just compare the results with other cars on the same kind of dyno,

What a ridiculous post, dude. For what its worth, from things I've observed so far in comparisons etc I find the Dynojets one of the most consistant and trust worthy dynos. Yes they read higher than DD (in saying that, there are heaps of people using DD dynos set up to read engine power - the results are coming out quite a bit higher than Dynojet read), but anyone with half a brain can take that into consideration - or just compare the results with other cars on the same kind of dyno,

thats his original point, the title is RWHP, Guilt-toy is pointing out that it will more likely than not, be reading closer to engine HP.

therefore, not being able to compare to other dynos that are setup up to read WHP.

So no one that posted has half a brain?

Edited by jangles

It was measured @ wheels, its rwhp. The fact that its closer to the engine hp than what a DD would give a reading for makes no difference, further from engine hp doesn't make it more accurate at all - just means its different and I think the collective are pretty offensive to continually slam anyone that runs a different dyno type to the minority here.... especially to the point of calling it junk. I personally feel that compared to MOST dyno brands the DD is the problem child, it reads far enough out from the "average" that it skews the whole ballgame, especially when DD fanbois act like all the others are "wrong" when thats BS.

For what its worth I've seen the odd comparison made between Dynojets and engine dynos and have seen results of 10-20% discrepancy between the number made on the engine dyno versus the DJ chassis dyno. The Dynojet software does NOT inflate anything (well it probably will do a little for SAE/whatever correction, as will DD/Dynapack/another other decent dyno software).

I know damn well Guilt Toy has more than half a brain, which is a good part of the reason I was so incredulous at what he said - this place is about sharing info and I feel that it was quite a "brain disengaged" type of comment to make, this place should be about sharing knowledge, experience and such forth. This guy has what could prove to be very useful "stuff" to share with us, and whether you guys like it or not he is using a dyno which is very likely to be far more proven and respected internationally ((certainly in the US) than DD and thus has really no reason to be treated as though he is an ignoramus for doing so. That kind of culture is what trains people who actually have experience worth sharing and would otherwise be inclined to into shutting up, and letting the empty cans prattle on and propegate misinformation further than it already has - and it clearly frustrates me.

On the other hand, the very thread title is claiming a particular HP, which means that dyno accuracy would make a difference. Not that i disagree with the fact that it really doesn't matter what actual number they put out, aslong as they do so consistantly (i guess you could say i disagree with brandishing a numbe about). Afterall dynos are for tuning cars. What has been done to it, and how it drives, are what is important

Accuracy is not an issue in this case anyway, DJ are really really consistant. How generous (or not) the dyno is the only point worth baring in mind here imho. In anyone's language this car is making a LOT of power, I'd be picking this car would still be making over 500rwkw on a DD dyno. I'm a bit iffy about the spool in this case, though - I'd have hoped to see better on a 2.8.

This thread has turned pointless, considering that here in Australia I can get one dyno reading at shop a then one at shop b and they will be very different, the only true comparison is using the same dyno in the exact same conditions.

If the op had supplied a before and after you probably wouldn't care as much about the end result , more the difference the mods made. I still think that is a nice power figure.

Edited by lilcrash

We just had a factory 2012 Camaro on a few weeks ago made the power GM said it should make 1 hp off.

As for the we part what dynos do you make?? You work for the company or what?

I wouldn'thave a Mustang dyno to many people saying they're wrong in the states nobody likes to hear Mustang numbers high low whatever. I just tune with it sorry if it's not the one you like. :no:

dynojet dynos are junk, its well known the power figures are inflated. they read engine hp not whp.

"you don't have a dyno" lol we make some of the best dyno's in the world my friend. The best american dyno is a Mustang Dyno.

Edited by Weapon X

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...