Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking for some feed back/opinions on these wastegates................as ive always run the old school garrett 32mm and 42mm gates............never used tial or turbosmart gates before........i have 2 38mm mvs gates and 2 45mm hypergates

any info be a real help

Edited by stocker

im not interested in sizes i know how gate work the smalller the gate the less gas it let 'sso theres more gas to spin the turbine ie high boost and big gate let out more gas for less turbine speed ie low boost ...........im more interested how they perform,hold boost,longevity of the gate in question,issues with the two brands etc

Both are very high quality gates. I havent ha a gate "wear out" only the cheap evay gates are a little dodgy as the valves dont seat 100% and theres too much play in the valve guide

Not sure bout turbosmart but the Tial allows coolant to run thru the top, does anyone run coolant thru or not worth it?

Ive been told all the Tials are just cheaply made in china? is this right or are they made in US?

i was planning on running the coolant if i end up using the tials

hi you find the real tials are us made but there are a whole heap of china tial knock off getting about.................before you buy a tial gate get the s/n and email it ti tial they tell you if its legit or not ...............but funny thing is turbosmart are made in china or what ever,yrs ago turbosmart use to have a hughe yearly sale of 2nds at wetherill park..........but there moved there manufacturing plants o/s

i was planning on running the coolant if i end up using the tials

hi you find the real tials are us made but there are a whole heap of china tial knock off getting about.................before you buy a tial gate get the s/n and email it ti tial they tell you if its legit or not ...............but funny thing is turbosmart are made in china or what ever,yrs ago turbosmart use to have a hughe yearly sale of 2nds at wetherill park..........but there moved there manufacturing plants o/s

wtf happened there?

lol, well personally i think the Tial looks the goods, i have a 44mm Tial and its a large unit, looks pretty hardcore compared to turbo smart. I havnt seen it work yet though and a newbee with this :whistling:

Yep, we have a Tial 38mm running straight off a turbo housing in a low mount application...which would get mega hot compared to having it off the manifold at the collector. It runs the coolant through it and the boost curve is straighter than a ruler.

Under racing conditions where everything gets super hot and the metals and welding are under most strain, the coolant helps lower temps down and prolong the life of the wastegate. The diaphram's life will be extended, as rubber perishes from heat over time.

I prefer TIAL gates as weve had ONE genuine TS gate jam. Theyre both good designs and nice and compact. The feature of the coolant cooling is favourable if youre racing it, but whether you have room for the lines (assuming twin scroll since youre using 2) or not is another thing to consider.

i got a 2jzgte aristo champ i would run them off the top water neck i would just get some alloy weld on 3/8th bungs to feed the gates the cool coolant and feed them back in to the alloy radiator to cool the colant exiting the gates opinions ?

i got some hks 2jzgte twin turbo manifolds with t3 flanges welded to them works out good for my twin td06's........is that a bad idea to feed the hot coolant out of the gates into the turbo'sor vise versa blake...............ive hidden the fusebox in the clovebox etc,deleted alot of stuff..........blake is going to be welding me in a custom tunnel

Edited by stocker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...