Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39770-drag-racing-gearbox/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mmm so far

C4 which I've noticed Rigoli like to use on the big R33's they build so they must be able to be adapted

Trimatic, I think I've read of skylines running them

I think the standard auto is Jatco? or could use one out of a VL?

all of the above would have to be built though to suit the HP and I'd say use transbrake and stall converter

What about the standard box (manual) being built as a dog box like Rigoli offer here http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/Gearsets.htm

Has anyone had any experience with the above?

damn that looks like a good idea, dog gears from 1 to 3, thats all most people need anyways for racing,. might give them a call, my cousin knows toni rigoli personlly maybe he can get me a dicount on the set, or organise a cheaper group buy.

  • 3 weeks later...

i think it's the fact endless dont really care as much as any of us would if the os kit stripped itself, they probs have 4 spare sets... every high hp gtr i know of in aus that has had an os has rooted 3rd.... call domenic from autostyle and ask him what he thinks of the os-cross mission or straight cut gears...not good...

also john munro ran a trust box and tore it a new one, they arent worth it in the end...will be goin a gtr box with pfitnez gears soon i dont think its the go but thats what the bloke wants....let you know how it goes probs be talking him into a holinger in 3 months :P

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Hi Rick, being a GTST I assume it's 2wd? If so, I think a standard R33 GTST box may well be OK, we have one behind a 420 rwkw RB31DET that is used for circuit racing and the tyres give up long before the gearbox does ie; wheelspin. The problem with the standard gearboxes and OS cross missions is exacerbated by the 4wd and the extra weight of the GTR's. So if you have one, I'd give it a go.

That said, there is really no substitute for an auto in a 2wd drag car. Hugo's make a good one with all the gear for around $3K, as used in Sub Zero's Try 09 and others. You just have to learn to live with an auto on the street, personally I can't but many others can.

Hope that helps

I'm currently running an OS Cross Mission gearset with a billet sandwhich plate in my GTR and it's holding fine.

Last dyno run was at AutoSalon and my car made 617rwkw and 593awkw.

I'm happy with the box and it held together fine on the weekend when we went to Heathcote.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...