Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39770-drag-racing-gearbox/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mmm so far

C4 which I've noticed Rigoli like to use on the big R33's they build so they must be able to be adapted

Trimatic, I think I've read of skylines running them

I think the standard auto is Jatco? or could use one out of a VL?

all of the above would have to be built though to suit the HP and I'd say use transbrake and stall converter

What about the standard box (manual) being built as a dog box like Rigoli offer here http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/Gearsets.htm

Has anyone had any experience with the above?

damn that looks like a good idea, dog gears from 1 to 3, thats all most people need anyways for racing,. might give them a call, my cousin knows toni rigoli personlly maybe he can get me a dicount on the set, or organise a cheaper group buy.

  • 3 weeks later...

i think it's the fact endless dont really care as much as any of us would if the os kit stripped itself, they probs have 4 spare sets... every high hp gtr i know of in aus that has had an os has rooted 3rd.... call domenic from autostyle and ask him what he thinks of the os-cross mission or straight cut gears...not good...

also john munro ran a trust box and tore it a new one, they arent worth it in the end...will be goin a gtr box with pfitnez gears soon i dont think its the go but thats what the bloke wants....let you know how it goes probs be talking him into a holinger in 3 months :P

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Hi Rick, being a GTST I assume it's 2wd? If so, I think a standard R33 GTST box may well be OK, we have one behind a 420 rwkw RB31DET that is used for circuit racing and the tyres give up long before the gearbox does ie; wheelspin. The problem with the standard gearboxes and OS cross missions is exacerbated by the 4wd and the extra weight of the GTR's. So if you have one, I'd give it a go.

That said, there is really no substitute for an auto in a 2wd drag car. Hugo's make a good one with all the gear for around $3K, as used in Sub Zero's Try 09 and others. You just have to learn to live with an auto on the street, personally I can't but many others can.

Hope that helps

I'm currently running an OS Cross Mission gearset with a billet sandwhich plate in my GTR and it's holding fine.

Last dyno run was at AutoSalon and my car made 617rwkw and 593awkw.

I'm happy with the box and it held together fine on the weekend when we went to Heathcote.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...