Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

None of the jap systems will be over track noise limits. You'll be fine.

Racespace or Rob Sabbadin will be able to do a custom system for similar price i would image. Call em.

Imo there is little difference between the two u have mentioned. HKS has a nice note on GTST.

Thanks for the advice all - now I have like 3-4 different avenues to pursue - oh well, its all fun :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

Have you looked inside to confirm?

They often have internal baffles, most of the Jap ones I've seen come through have them. Both my jap ones over the years have.

"3.5" exhaust, but with internal baffles around the 3"-2.75"

Well, I went and got myself a brand new Apexi N1 Pro for an unreal cheap sum of $690 from Ark Design.

Its dimensions are following - 3" flange then its 3.5" piping into the centre muffler - from there it goes to 3.75" all the way into the back muffler which is 3.5"........ Is it gonna be loud - probably. Will I need Apexi ATS - probably, but lets see how loud its first

I also got some Blitz front pipes 2x70mm into an 80mm, and a 3" ceramic cat.

post-62747-0-02403400-1335345969_thumb.jpg

It's not going to be too loud. Just right. Do you drive it everyday? If so, yes it will be a little loud on the road, but perfect on the track.

lol at this thread, GTR owners are a different breed. It's a stock engine that sees track days...it is not going to see over 300rwkw.

I don't drive it everyday - but few times a week - hoping it will sound nice down at PI main straight :rolleyes:

This thing will probably never see 300rwkw.

Did look into custom 3.5" - price was $3,500:

So here is the questionaire, what would I make more power with:

A: 3.5" custom exhaust and stock turbos - total mods cost = $3,500.

B: this exhaust setup and a pair of -7's - total mods cost = $3,500.

I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this. I know, with option B I'd need new fuel pump and some injectors but value for money custom exhaust just was not making any sense.

Saw your results in the dyno thread, so how does the exhaust sound? am thinking of getting one for my gtst.

Its reasonably noisy - not too bad, there is a bit of booming in the cabin but I don't think its too bad. Ground clearance in the middle of the car is really good but looks like its slightly less where the middle muffler is located. Fit and finish seemed 1st class - definitely a value-for-money...and it doesn't seem like it hurt the power output too much either :cheers:

does your muffler have a restrictor inside? is it a hotdog resonator? cause i just fitted a nur spec muffler and its terribly noisy and dronning from idle til about 2500rpm.

No restrictor inside the back muffler - just a 3.5" pipe.

Centre muffler is not hotdog style - its a fullsized muffler as can be seen on the picture,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...