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PWR

For around $500 you can buy the larger 19 or 21 row coolers, lines, fittings and sandwich plate. We have tried Setrab, Greddy, HKS, JustJap and they all do 'ok' but the PWR one was the one that reduced oil temps the most. We see around 20-25 degree drops which is also equal to about 4-5 degree coolant temp drops on the track

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You can (or at least I do) walk straight in their front doors and buy them also.

Mention my name and I get more discount :P

You can buy the sandwich plate from Performance Wholesale or even places like Autobarn/Repco with or without sensor holes. You get the PWR cooler with -8 lines fitted and you can use -8 hose to the fittings that will come with the sandwich plate OR you can go -10 lines but you will need to get 2 x 3/8 NPT > -10 male adaptors and 90 deg -10 fittings to come off the sandwich plate.

So all up usually:

PWR Cooler: $220-$250 (depending on size)

Sandwich plate: $65-$85

Lines: 3 or 4m @ $30-$40/m

Fittings: ~ $50-60

Apparently they tested the Setrab ones beside these and the PWR ones outperform them. We have seen the same

Do they have a Thermostat in the PWR ones tho?

I need a themostat

Just run an in-line thermostat? Earls make them, as do a few others. No big deal, will require a few more fittings but that's money you will have saved by not buying a kit with an inbuilt thermostat anyway.

purchased the driftworks ultimate relocation kit bout a month ago mate and just had my first track day on the weekend, dont think i saw oil temps higher than 85 and it was probably neally 30 degrees out on track

I was extremely suprised at the quality of the kit but at around 700 delivered its not cheap either, the basic kit is the same as the one i got but without the oil filter relocater...but yea i'd def recommend the driftworks kit, they use a MIH core and sandwich plate and speedflow fittings/braided line so all in all its good bang for buck

Midnight mods is another who can make full kits to suit RBs and use a in line thermostat, which can also be bought seperatly http://www.midnightmods.com.au/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=214&zenid=d3becc4efb2785a89553b5c8bf88433e

I have used a greddy thermostat sandwich plate a number of times now. They're cheap and are well built. Then just make up your own lines and fittings (use pushlock hose and fittings for best value for money). As for a cooler, I preffer mocal or pwr. Most kits will need the hoses 'adjusted' for length anyway.

What ever way you go make shure you have a thermostat in there somewhere. Also an inline thermostat will require 2x the amount of hose fittings to be purchased...

DONT USE A SECOND HAND CORE!!!

Cheers

Justin

What ever way you go make shure you have a thermostat in there somewhere. Also an inline thermostat will require 2x the amount of hose fittings to be purchased...

If you purchase a Mocal inline thermostat then they use male fittings on each end, so you only require an additional 4 straight hose ends which isn't too big a deal, would cost about 60 bucks. A lot of the other inline thermostats I've seen have got female threads so you need to buy 4 female-male adapters in addition to the 4 straight hose ends. Again not too big a deal, but would cost about 100 bucks compared to 60 bucks, and you've then got more fittings that can potentially leak.

Considering you're most likely going to pay ~$200 for a new Greddy thermostatic sandwich plate compared to around $150 for an inline thermostat + fittings (depending on brand), I still think you'll be a bit better off financially by going with an inline thermostat over the Greddy option.

Well why would you not run one? For the sake of $150-$200 it's worth it for me. I may not live in an area that has consistent sub-zero temperatures, but we still see sub-10 degrees in winter here, and on occasion we get below zero if you are getting up at 5am like myself. Not sure about you guys, but my neighbours don't appreciate me idling my car at the best of times, let alone 5am.

More things to go wrong

if you dont want to idle it, the drive it soft for a few mins which you should do anyway

I do putt around until everything is up to operating temp, takes a good 10 minutes though. I just assumed that having an oil cooler without a thermostat would make it take a lot longer. Not that I am dying to thrash my car as soon as possible, really I hardly boost around on the street as it is. But the quicker things can warm up to their correct operating temperature the better?

Out of interest, what size oil cooler are/were you using? Would that make a lot of difference to whether you are under/over cooling?

I find it almost impossible to get the oil to 80 degrees in a oil cooler without a thermostat in mine 30-40min driving in average weather like 25 and I could not get oil temp over 65-70 so I would think for a street car you would really need one.

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