M35 Stagea Brake Cut Off Mod?

[DaveM35]

Yeh mate, reverse lights is definitely best setup, it's pretty much unavoidable to use reverse every time you drive somewhere, but maybe a lot of guys won't have the car running with doors open...I just always warm it up and leave door open whilst shutting garage, and also have to open door as I park to make sure I'm in far enough, so it'll work good for me!

[joshm35]

Never know you could be a ex commo driver and used to driving the car with no doors. Fixed!

[walkoau]

sorry to revive an old thread, but i will be doing this tomorrow. i will get the 12v feed from the reverse signal wire i used for my reverse camera. seems like a very easy straight forward mod.

I thought the car was just heavy and had heaps of lag, but this should wake it up off the line.

[scotty nm35]

You are on your own with that wiring, hopefully you don't have issues. Let us know how you go. I don't see what's so hard about flicking a switch once a month though...

You should be impressed stalling it up, but it is rarely noticeable on the stock turbo while driving. Once you go highflow turbo it's a requirement imo.

Just make sure you find the engine ECU, not the trans ecu in the kick panel.

[walkoau]

all done and tested. i noticed it has improved on stall up a bit. i will be getting an exhaust done very soon, im sure that will make a big difference.

anyone know of a good exhaust shop in sydney that knows what their doing with the m35s? i would like a full 3 inch stainless system.

Scott, do you supply full bolt on exhausts or only the dump pipe?

[Daleo]

all done and tested. i noticed it has improved on stall up a bit. i will be getting an exhaust done very soon, im sure that will make a big difference.

anyone know of a good exhaust shop in sydney that knows what their doing with the m35s? i would like a full 3 inch stainless system.

Scott, do you supply full bolt on exhausts or only the dump pipe?

Talk to Theo (WAGON BOY), he has a locally made (Western Sydney) system that is absolutely beautiful. A really nice note, no drone and excellent fab work.

[scotty nm35]

all done and tested. i noticed it has improved on stall up a bit. i will be getting an exhaust done very soon, im sure that will make a big difference.

anyone know of a good exhaust shop in sydney that knows what their doing with the m35s? i would like a full 3 inch stainless system.

Scott, do you supply full bolt on exhausts or only the dump pipe?

I only do the dump/front pipes, unless the car is here.

[stripey]

You are on your own with that wiring, hopefully you don't have issues. Let us know how you go. I don't see what's so hard about flicking a switch once a month though...

You should be impressed stalling it up, but it is rarely noticeable on the stock turbo while driving. Once you go highflow turbo it's a requirement imo.

Just make sure you find the engine ECU, not the trans ecu in the kick panel.

i know this is an old thread but where you have switch to flick to clear code why not use a small momentary push button switch placed somewhere near gear selector so when you want it you just hold down the button launch. release it and everything is normal again no codes .

just an idea

[Daleo]

i know this is an old thread but where you have switch to flick to clear code why not use a small momentary push button switch placed somewhere near gear selector so when you want it you just hold down the button launch. release it and everything is normal again no codes .

just an idea

Because you will still have to deal with the continual delay in throttle opening any time you use the brake.

Why press a button every time you want to bypass the delay, when you can enjoy life without it, and very occasionally establish the continuity of the circuit and touch the brake pedal for 5 seconds if/when the ECU light comes on.

[malialipali]

Did my inner CV boot today and brake cut mod.

Jaycar $3 microswitch some bending of the feeler and a longer plastic screw to replace the one i took out of the shifter housing.

Edited October 3, 2015 by malialipali

[scotty nm35]

Nice one Joe, that should work fine. Let us know how it goes.

[malialipali]

Nice one Joe, that should work fine. Let us know how it goes.

From what im reading the ECU will throw a code in a few 100 km if I haven't done it right. I measured and I have 12V over the switch when closed in Park with foot on the brake. Will see in a week or so.

Also if you guys want slightly more sensitive manual shift you can bend the feelers on the microswitches out a little. Did this on a J31 maxima my mum wanted a sportier shift .

[malialipali]

Hi Folks, an update.

Done about 800km so far - no issues no codes thrown, and I can say with hand on heart that there is definite improvement on take off.

I actually feel confident doing tight handers with on coming traffic knowing I have proper throttle response.

For 3 bucks and about 40 min of my time figuring out the best way to bend the switch feeler etc this was a very worthwhile mod.

[joshm35]

Can you write do up a quick sketch to show witing etc and if you can a link to the micro switch you bought.

[malialipali]

Can you write do up a quick sketch to show witing etc and if you can a link to the micro switch you bought.

Sure thing!

Excuse the 90 second iPad finger painting

1. Remove glovebox

2. Locate ECU

3. Unclip the connector from the ECU - pull down the black lever.

4. Unclip the lever by spreading it and pulling away

5. Remove the loom bundle cover (spread it with a flat blade screwdriver)

6. Unravel or skooch up the tape about 5 cm

7. Locate the pink/black trace wire - pin 55 ( the ECU pinout is on the forums here) , put a multimeter on the pin and prod the wire if unsure.

8. Cut and strip the pink/black wire , solder on lengths of wire for the switch. Lengths depend on how you will run it to the shifter box , I followed the existing wiring and drew it behind the deck.

9. Bundle in the new wiring and tape up to existing loom. Reassemble the connector and click it back on the ecu.

10. Slide off the shift knob and lift away the cover, put it aside (no need to unclip wiring)

11. The first plastic screw infront of the shift lever undo and use it to bore out the mounting hole on the microswitch http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Switches/Micro-Switches/SPDT-Miniature-Microswitch/p/SM1038( shows as $4.95 online but I paid 3 bucks )

12. Bend up the feeler , can be done with fingers or long nose pliers - careful not to rip it off the switch.

13. Test fit with the longer plastic screw

14. Solder up as per photo above and diagram. Fix it back in place make sure that the switch closes when in Park.

15. Fire up the car (make sure it works ) throw a multimeter/test light across the pins and tap the brake - test there is no 12v on the other side by moving the shifter.

Reassemble everything (maybe change your AC filter as summer is coming )

My fascia kit is on its way from Amazon US , when I install a new HU I will wrap and bundle the wiring properly , put some hotglue under the switch and over the soldered pins on the switch. For neatness and safety.

Shitty wiring diagram below. I have a CertIV in electronics but honestly couldn't be bothered firing up XCircuit ( 50+ hrs in the office). Ill happily do this for WA members just supply a switch and understand my schedule is hectic and no warranties apply as its a freebie.

Edited October 12, 2015 by malialipali

[joshm35]

Cheers mate. Appreciated

[joshm35]

So i followed the above and installed the microswitch at the shifter. Only bit i can add to this thread that i had to use spacers below the switch to raise it of the plastic as the switch was hard up against the lever surrounds. A bit of 5mm hose worked well

[malialipali]

Very nice!

[malialipali]

So on the way back from SA 100km out of Perth got a Engine Light, I think at that point we drove about 5hrs without having it in park.

First set of lights encountered, in park and about 3 seconds of brake pedal sorted it out.

What I noticed though was when the engine light came on and even when "cleared" the trans shifted weird at low speeds. Wasn't until the car was shut off and back that the shifting sorted it self out , could be coincidence though as Ive just hit 152k km and should flush the trans.

[Philr32]

So i followed the above and installed the microswitch at the shifter. Only bit i can add to this thread that i had to use spacers below the switch to raise it of the plastic as the switch was hard up against the lever surrounds. A bit of 5mm hose worked well

Is it just me or does the wire you cut and stripped look red and blue not pink and black? I'm likely wrong, just something I noticed