Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Ok so a short run down on my situation.

Recently just put an RB25DET motor from a Series 1 Automatic R33 into my manual R32 GTS-t.

I drove the car that this RB25 came out of for around a week, NO ISSUES at all with the motor.

Got the loom made up by Sideshow Wiring (Jim) in Queensland.

Motor is standard, standard intercooler, turbo, no boost controller etc, 3.5" HKS catback exhaust, Blitz pod filter and splitfire coilpacks. Brand new spark plugs. Running the factory Auto R33 ecu.

Now my issues were that it was running really rich (like 200kms to a tank and blowing stupid flames), and had a fairly large and noticeable dead/flat spot between 3500-6500rpm (doesn't really feel/sound like it's misfiring though).

It would also want to stall if I approach the lights with the clutch in, but would get down to about 100rpm and pick back up again. Would only occasionally do this..

ALSO, if the motor was under fair load (say going up a hill) at around 3000rpm, the motor will cut out and quickly come back again.

So I thought, I'll replace one thing at a time and see how I can fix it.

New spark plugs regapped to 0.8mm, have tried three AFM's, two sets of splitfire coilpacks, o2 sensor, Bosch 040 fuel pump and finally an RB20 wastegate.

Nothing fixed any of the issues. So I thought I'll hook up the consult cable and look to see if there's any fault codes. Sure enough one came up, number 54 - A/T control. Was sort of happy, thought that the auto ecu may have been going into limp mode or something similar.

Managed to find a manual R33 ECU and plugged it in - ALL PROBLEMS VANISHED!

Or so I thought. The car was wanting to still stall when I approached the lights.. I found a bit of a leak in the pipe which leads off the blow off valve, replaced this and what do you know the stalling issue is fixed too!!

So I take the car out of the garage thinking I have fixed all issues, and I give the car a good rev onto an onramp... Nope, all problems appeared again. Running stupidly rich, really distinct flat spot (still making around 0.6bar boost) and a new problem also - very slight misfire when I lift the throttle off, can easily tell it's running on 5 cylinders for that quick moment.

I checked the faults with the consult cable and nothing has come up.

I really don't know what else to check/change, I've done as much as I can without spending obviously a rediculous amount of money.

I don't have the money to take it anywhere, nor get a PFC + tune etc.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? Surely it has to be something stupidly simple...

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Brent.

That was the number one thing I said I'm not doing. The car is standard, it shouldn't need a tune or aftermarket ecu.

The car WAS running 100% fine for about 20 minutes after I replaced the ecu with a manual one. And then got back into old habits, I guess because something is telling the ecu it has to run that way...

Well if you have a

Manual ecu with correct wiring loom, you say you have coil packs, airflow meter, I would check cat converter I'll have a better think about it and get back to you but I spose your right you probably

Don't need a tune im just saying of u had a power fc and a retune your issues would probably

Be fixed or atleast be more

Viable whilst tuning very hard to

Diagnose over the Internet with the provided info.

Well he has only replaced the ecu so as I

Said its hard to diagnose over the net. I doubt he has wired it incorrectly from the sounds of things I would say best bet a component is faulty once checked everything than I would check ecu .

True. I forgot to mention that I'm running a de-cat pipe and my timing is set perfectly at 15 degrees. Could the cas still be faulty? It's one thing I haven't replaced as of yet... A mate today also suggested could be an earthing issue? Where the hell would I start to determine whether it's an earth issue?

i would be checking all areas of wiring that YOU have physically tampered with make sure the pinouts on the ecu have a proper earth. It may be a process if your not confident, if this where me i would spend a day looking through the faults than if nothing, take it to a mechanic.

It just occurred to me, do you have any sort of speed signal being sent to the ecu? That may be causing part of the problem if it isn't right. The ecu factors it in, as it does with the neutral switch. So if the ecu is getting the wrong signals then it will be using the wrong maps

  • 1 year later...

Yes this did get fixed. It ended up being an issue with the wiring loom conversion. I can't remember exactly what the problem was, may have been something to do with the TPS from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can ship Nismo floor mats to you: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/nismo-floor-mats-for-skyline-r33-bcnr33-stagea-wgnc34?_pos=1&_sid=9278c1467&_ss=r  
    • Here's the link: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6642/misc/G49?frame_no=WGNC34-137122 What you think about it? The same product i found on nengun: https://www.nengun.com/oem/parts/40567/MiPwn5qAMfCfmpxHNDnwn5q9MDAx8J-QiW9sZC1qcC0xMTAtRzQ5LS0wMDE/Floor+Carpet+%2F+Mat+2/0688339eba149c19 Bot i have spoken to 😅 ensured me, that mats are 100% original, oem product. I have my doubts. I also heard what you mentioned, that nengun often offers items that are actual not available... On the other hand mats i found on japanese yahoo or ebay are in poor condition and still quite expensive so i'd rather wait for some better offers. My location - Poland. We literaly don't have ANY market for used Stagea parts so need to search outside Europe.
    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
×
×
  • Create New...