Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Ok so a short run down on my situation.

Recently just put an RB25DET motor from a Series 1 Automatic R33 into my manual R32 GTS-t.

I drove the car that this RB25 came out of for around a week, NO ISSUES at all with the motor.

Got the loom made up by Sideshow Wiring (Jim) in Queensland.

Motor is standard, standard intercooler, turbo, no boost controller etc, 3.5" HKS catback exhaust, Blitz pod filter and splitfire coilpacks. Brand new spark plugs. Running the factory Auto R33 ecu.

Now my issues were that it was running really rich (like 200kms to a tank and blowing stupid flames), and had a fairly large and noticeable dead/flat spot between 3500-6500rpm (doesn't really feel/sound like it's misfiring though).

It would also want to stall if I approach the lights with the clutch in, but would get down to about 100rpm and pick back up again. Would only occasionally do this..

ALSO, if the motor was under fair load (say going up a hill) at around 3000rpm, the motor will cut out and quickly come back again.

So I thought, I'll replace one thing at a time and see how I can fix it.

New spark plugs regapped to 0.8mm, have tried three AFM's, two sets of splitfire coilpacks, o2 sensor, Bosch 040 fuel pump and finally an RB20 wastegate.

Nothing fixed any of the issues. So I thought I'll hook up the consult cable and look to see if there's any fault codes. Sure enough one came up, number 54 - A/T control. Was sort of happy, thought that the auto ecu may have been going into limp mode or something similar.

Managed to find a manual R33 ECU and plugged it in - ALL PROBLEMS VANISHED!

Or so I thought. The car was wanting to still stall when I approached the lights.. I found a bit of a leak in the pipe which leads off the blow off valve, replaced this and what do you know the stalling issue is fixed too!!

So I take the car out of the garage thinking I have fixed all issues, and I give the car a good rev onto an onramp... Nope, all problems appeared again. Running stupidly rich, really distinct flat spot (still making around 0.6bar boost) and a new problem also - very slight misfire when I lift the throttle off, can easily tell it's running on 5 cylinders for that quick moment.

I checked the faults with the consult cable and nothing has come up.

I really don't know what else to check/change, I've done as much as I can without spending obviously a rediculous amount of money.

I don't have the money to take it anywhere, nor get a PFC + tune etc.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? Surely it has to be something stupidly simple...

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Brent.

That was the number one thing I said I'm not doing. The car is standard, it shouldn't need a tune or aftermarket ecu.

The car WAS running 100% fine for about 20 minutes after I replaced the ecu with a manual one. And then got back into old habits, I guess because something is telling the ecu it has to run that way...

Well if you have a

Manual ecu with correct wiring loom, you say you have coil packs, airflow meter, I would check cat converter I'll have a better think about it and get back to you but I spose your right you probably

Don't need a tune im just saying of u had a power fc and a retune your issues would probably

Be fixed or atleast be more

Viable whilst tuning very hard to

Diagnose over the Internet with the provided info.

Well he has only replaced the ecu so as I

Said its hard to diagnose over the net. I doubt he has wired it incorrectly from the sounds of things I would say best bet a component is faulty once checked everything than I would check ecu .

True. I forgot to mention that I'm running a de-cat pipe and my timing is set perfectly at 15 degrees. Could the cas still be faulty? It's one thing I haven't replaced as of yet... A mate today also suggested could be an earthing issue? Where the hell would I start to determine whether it's an earth issue?

i would be checking all areas of wiring that YOU have physically tampered with make sure the pinouts on the ecu have a proper earth. It may be a process if your not confident, if this where me i would spend a day looking through the faults than if nothing, take it to a mechanic.

It just occurred to me, do you have any sort of speed signal being sent to the ecu? That may be causing part of the problem if it isn't right. The ecu factors it in, as it does with the neutral switch. So if the ecu is getting the wrong signals then it will be using the wrong maps

  • 1 year later...

Yes this did get fixed. It ended up being an issue with the wiring loom conversion. I can't remember exactly what the problem was, may have been something to do with the TPS from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...