Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The dyno graph doesn't look too bad for a 2.6l bottom end wouldnt you say? Stock airbox too :)

Yeah but if you are in 2nd gear on a set of 2530s, it wouldnt be as responsive as well. Nothing to at least 4000rpm. I had them with a set of 260/260 9.15mm. People with -5s on a 26 bottom have to be honest and say they dont get no full boost until around 4500rpm :)

Either way, I dont recommend HKS GT-RS on a 2.6l bottom end. However, i will wait and see what i run with the RB30 and again provide results. Though i can only imagine it is going to get better that my current dyno graph :)

Edited by destrukshn
  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you really want to use those turbos, i wouldnt be asking on a forum for ideas on if/how to get it to work.

Youre better off going to a good builder with a reputation for making things work and ask them, hand over your $$$ because once youre up there getting the max out of something, its takes every little bit.

everything counts.

Piggaz and N1GTR are up to mid 400s with -5's, they have well sorted setups.

most people net mid to high 300s... its the setup as a collective

i have spoken with my engine builder and he has said they would be laggt and also mentioned gtx turbos as well! He is well aware of my power goals and what i want to do with the car but because he is also my mate knows that even though a single would be better melbourne is really f**ked atm! I just went to coles (maybe 5 kms from my house) and saw 2 ppl pulled over! 1 patrol car just kicking it on the other side of the road parked and another cop car pull into maccas lol!

I should add that GT-RS' would be great if you had a close ratio box and 4.3:1 diff gears so you could keep it right in the power, would be absolutely ballistic

Thats sorted!

I have an o.s giken cross mission 1-5 gear set!

Was gonna go a dog box but not willing to spend half of what i paid for my car on one!

Im very near the end of what i have to do with my car! My bedroom and garage are full of boxes of prts for it! I started compiling more than 2 years ago! I just need to sort out head hardware and turbos! (and suspension but it can waut im pretty happy driving around with the standard vspec coils atm)

lol @ driving around the streets in 1st gear, with R34 gearing just to get the car to move because 2nd is not useful...

well if you're driving around the streets, you shouldnt need to be in boost anyway :P

Wait for the RB30 and we'll see the results. Should rip the 365 you make on any part of the dyno. :woot:

Seen the results of 3.0 with RS's and -5's on the same engine. Its not even fair, actually it's a joke.

If they're lacking top end it means your setup was ineffecient/shit.

2530's/-5's lacking top end? Rightio. 450 on my engine was only a intake can twist away but I didn't want to loose midrange.

My 2.8 results are enough. 125 kw extra through the midrange and 25 more up top.

Gav made more midrange with 5's and made the same up top (the went onto make 620 rwhp).

It's a discussion/argument that's been had many times.

"but I'll feel you in with my peak Powah".

Yep....

Average power > peak power.

Whatever makes you happy...

Seen the results of 3.0 with RS's and -5's on the same engine. Its not even fair, actually it's a joke.

If they're lacking top end it means your setup was ineffecient/shit.

2530's/-5's lacking top end? Rightio. 450 on my engine was only a intake can twist away but I didn't want to loose midrange.

My 2.8 results are enough. 125 kw extra through the midrange and 25 more up top.

Gav made more midrange with 5's and made the same up top (the went onto make 620 rwhp).

It's a discussion/argument that's been had many times.

"but I'll feel you in with my peak Powah".

Yep....

Average power > peak power.

Whatever makes you happy...

The engine that lacked response from a RS with a 30 was shit and inefficient hence the improvement and downgrade to a -5 made it more efficient? That can be said too?

The guys running a 2.8/3.0 running a gt-rs in REAR WHEEL DRIVE and making less power than a 2.6 IN AWD is shit and inefficient. Now that is true! Sorry but that is the truth. :)

If you can't make your 2.8/3 run good on a bigger spec turbo (Rs's) you're calling it shit and your engine with -5's is what? Is good? Hahahahahaha don't make me laugh too hard please. As bigmikespec said with good head porting you can make it go a long way and you'll just have to wait and see if my combo works. :P

I actually loved the feeling of the RS's with the extra response it would destroy the -5s, literally.

Edited by destrukshn

Couple of people have produced good results with GT-RS with the right combination (i.e. Paul Diemar). Others obviously haven't and tend to be more vocal on the subject spreading misinformation.

Couple of people have produced good results with GT-RS with the right combination (i.e. Paul Diemar). Others obviously haven't and tend to be more vocal on the subject spreading misinformation.

My point exactly bigmikespec. All i hear is the GT-RS's are shit. Though they don't think their engine is shit and can't handle the GT-RS's? They keep providing that information to others on SAU, but they are just misinforming everyone. What the others keep quoting is the GT-RS's will max out around 450rwkw and if so you might as well get the -5's and get the same power. For them yes because they can't push any further on the Rs's. I understand that. Though they don't mention that there have been others who have pushed the GT-RS's past 500kw The turbos do work if you have a great engine combination. Are we going to see a set of -5's hit past the 500kw mark? Doubt it.

Though they do lag on a 2.6l bottom end more than -5's but they do work and if you're thinking of stroking to 2.8/3l you may want to take that advantage and boost the power/response/torque too.

Regardless anything 450awkw+ will have some type of lag, just how much of it is unbearable will depend on the person. But that lag will compensate in the top-end where you would literally smash the -5s.

Edited by destrukshn

Smash... in the context of more power I think.

Either way, as for guidance I stand by my previous comment, go single! Any way that you can!!! There must be some single turbo GTR's in Victoria. I would go single low mount if I had to. Big power and low mounted twins is a bad match.

Smash where exactly?

Circuit? Nup

Drag strip? Not the 1st 1000ft

Street - nup

As for twoogle having good results, 9.9 yeah?

Mark berry ran 9.7 in a circuit car on circuit semis with -5s and less power....

To answer your questions. I could do the same with the HKS GT-RS on RB30 in someone with a set of -5s on 2.6, 2.8 or 3l

Circuit? Depends what track. A track that depends on much more top-end power than low-mid response, low speed corners/Highspeed corners, long straights etc. Change the diff ratios and the car could be a complete monster. There is more to a track than just outright power so to narrow it to what you said is incorrect based on just turbos, weight, suspension etc.

Drag strip? Tyres? not the first 1000ft you say? And what happens if i am already launching in boost, anti-lag launch control? Do i see -5s running in to 9s? I

Street? Same as above, anti-lag launch control

Honestly comparing apples and oranges so even saying those comparisons is ridiculous. Has too many different comparisons even such as tyres etc.

Smash... in the context of more power I think.

So we are just talking dyno pony's here then essentially.

Not sure the OP wants a dyno pony, more so a car that is useable and will run 9s. I think that needs OP clarification around that is needed

Honestly comparing apples and oranges so even saying those comparisons is ridiculous. Has too many different comparisons even such as tyres etc.

Yet you are the one saying people who've done back to back comparisons - and that can actually speak from experience - don't know what they are talking about.

Right... :rolleyes:

So we are just talking dyno pony's here then essentially.

Not sure the OP wants a dyno pony, more so a car that is useable and will run 9s. I think that needs OP clarification around that is needed

Yet you are the one saying people who've done back to back comparisons - and that can actually speak from experience - don't know what they are talking about.

Right... :rolleyes:

Well the OP wanted 500kw, you going to say the -5s will get 500kw? Are you saying with a pair of HKS GT-RS combined with a RB30, the OP won't have useable power? It all depends on his build and supporting modifications. You're providing misleading information. Read his first post.

Back to back comparisons, what? from GT-RS > 2530s? Running a bigger turbo which their engine was not built for? Piggaz was running a head which wasn't even ported, slapped on with 270 10.25mm. The only experience they have had is downsizing their turbo to make the full efficiency of their engine/turbo combination.

Whereas someone who has had experience with 2530s and has built their motor to suit the HKS GT-RS? Who has no surge at all? Whereas those guys complaining about their surge and how it is a shit turbo etc are making less power than someone in a 2.6? What no explaination for this? You obviously don't know what you're talking about with your 365kw. :whistling:

As i said earlier, Piggaz motor can't handle the GT-RS even if it was stroked because his cylinder head was not made to suit the application. If done right, it would've blew his mind away. Yet he made under 450rwkw? So he might as well go back and use -5s and achieve the same power because his car wasnt made for 450+ otherwise he would have got it.

Edited by destrukshn

Guys chill the f**k out yeah!

This thread is 30 posts long and still hasnt answered my question yet!

I will reiterate for you!

Car r33 gtr v spec

power goal 500kw atw

et sub 10

Engine rb 26/30 being built by sabaddin automotive in clayton! (ill only list main stuff my phone does my head in typing long ass replies)

Rb30 block

serious machine work with oil galleries etc catered for

balanced standard crank

Custom oil pump

nitto pistons

forged rods

ati 1000hp balancer

getting a pro engines sump adapter kit (if they ever reply to my fkn email)

Custom extended sump

pwr radiayor

pwr intercooler

pwr oil cooler

os giken 1-5 gear sey

havnt got a clutchbyet but probs os giken twin/triple plate

Wolf v500 ecu with anti lag and launch control :)

I want to go single but i cbf if i get pulled over with the hassles!

Head work (the main point to this thread remember)

I have a bare gtr head sitting here which is what i am going to be using!

My plans are as follows but i am chasing advice on what to do/what others recomend

Tomei cams

cam gears

port/polish/machining

oversize valves (.5mm)

Titanium springs

retainers

etc

in terms of engine combination it is being built for 1000hp+ so engine combo is definately up to the task of handling what gets thrown at it!

Car is basically an ocasional street car with strip in mind

PLEASE ADVISE!!!!

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah they charge a little extra for mods , last year I noted no mods but I did have an exhaust fitted after that so  better to let them know cause these kinds of things can cause the policy to be void if you ever need to claim.
    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
×
×
  • Create New...