Jump to content
SAU Community

Roll Cage For My Gtr..who Does A Good Job?


Recommended Posts

thinking about getting a little more serious with my GTR...

Can anyone recommend someone to supply/install a roll cage.

Im happy to transport the car to the right person.

Pro fabrication race engineering in Campbeltown

Look in the fabrication section of this forum for his work

For what you want to do there is a heap of various options you could go with from basic halves through to extensive full cages.

I'm being fairly picky with what types of cages I'm doing now due to time limitations but an r35 with a decent cage is hard to say no to.

If you want to see a couple of designs send me a pm and I'll organize some photos for you.

Brad

Pro fabrication race engineering

0404 832 620

Speedah

We designed a template for a nice, tight fitting structural GTR cage, thats full CAMS compliant, non intrusive from a driving viewpoint (VERY important in a GTR with regards to headroom, A pillar inclusion etc.) and then went and tested it in a 180km/h high speed rollover (unintentional!) Structurally the car remained perfect (drivers door still opens shuts which allowed the driver to live in this case). PM LSX-438 he has seen the installation in person.

This is the guy that made the cage - http://www.alexbennett.com.au/index.html

We can get Alex to carry out the fitment of the cage while we are fitting your larger WR35TTR turbos, upgrading your trans etc. :)

Edit: Found some pics!

cage1.jpg

cage2.jpg

cage3.jpg

cage4.jpg

You may want to check the current CAMS shedule J.

That cage won't be up to min requirements for a two person ocupancy event like Tarmac rallying anymore.

For anything state level + you require roof protection for both sides of the vehicle.

( yours appears to have none at all??)

Another state level requirement is a diagonal from both sides of the roof line.

Either in the hoop or rear leg section

I believe CAMS run most large Tarmac rally's as "national" events

Leading to cars logged after 1/1/2012 to require a proper side intrusion bar being of a sectioned X or U with opposing gussets.

Also they need a drop bar from the front leg 1st bend to base of said leg.

For his intended purpose of SS and track days non of that is required.

Its a signed off CAMS cage, has the correct documentation and meets the requirements of 2011 when it was carried out.

Speedah can make the decision how much he wants to chop the car up/what kind of events he wants to enter. There is some tricky work in pulling the interiors in and out (dash etc.) of these things, but its all good fun!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...