Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After spending many hours reading thru topics on here I have decided on a set of GT2860 -9 turbos for my R33 GTR but still have one niggling problem I'd like to throw to you experts out there......and that is the issue of that shuffling you get with larger BB turbos.

Now, there're plenty of topics that talk about it but a lot of them stop half way or don't quite confirm a solution. The three main solutions appear to be:

1. Keep all your factory plumbing, especially BOV return a and balance piping

2. Weld a balance pipe between the two manifolds

3. Weld a divider pipe into the "twin turbo" collector pipe.

Could anyone who has had this problem please let me know how they went about fixing it. Am hoping for solutions and comments from those who have actually dealt with the problem first hand....

I was orginally going to go for -7's that apparantly are so close to stock performance that they don't shuffle....but now that I'm going for one step up from those I'm thinking we'd be back in the suffle zone.

Thanks for your time guys ;-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398415-rb26-twin-turbo-shufflesurge/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ah ok excellent - sounds good. And yes, that's a good point - I had R33 N1's on it at one stage and they never shuffled either althought technically, it has more to do with how fast and how far down low the BB cartridge makes the turbo spool up rather than just size etc etc.

But either way - sounds like I'm in the clear with the 9's

And yep, I'll be keeping all my intake piping for now anyway..

Thanks for the quick replies peeps ;-)

If you can increase the amount of air the engine can ingest at that point I guess they wont surge as badly, or just slow the compressor down by reducing the exhaust velocity? I would expect timing, especially valve timing could play a part in fixing the issue.

Tuning does without a doubt play a part.

That said, I've had two -9 setups no surge on a 2.6

My -5s on 2.6 will surge ONLY on a 4-8 degree morning in the hills, loaded up in 5th @ about 2300rpm from what i can remember. basically such a rare occurrence it doesn't bother me.

Tuning does without a doubt play a part.

That said, I've had two -9 setups no surge on a 2.6

My -5s on 2.6 will surge ONLY on a 4-8 degree morning in the hills, loaded up in 5th @ about 2300rpm from what i can remember. basically such a rare occurrence it doesn't bother me.

I had the same thing on my 32GTR with 2530's. Solved by changing down a gear :)

I've done heaps of divided turbo pipes, they do work but having done so many I also found a trick with the divider plate.

I leave a small section of the front turbos air path in plated, it allows some of the front turbos air to swirl around into the rear turbos path.

A customer of mine who is a fluid scientist type guy explained how making the front turbo swirl around the inside of the pipe before merging with the rear turbo helps promote a lamina flow and draw the air away from the compressor housing thus reducing the shuffle.

The mod does seem to improve the issue on all the cars I've ever done one for.

Can't hurt to give it a go.

Ah damn, so there's probably a 50-50 split of people who've experienced shuffling and those who haven't with -9's

From everything I've read it would appear that the GT2860-9 turbos are on the very limit of wanting to shuffle. We're approaching winter so I guess some of these very "well working" turbos will shuffle a bit down low with the far more denser air.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...