Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just out of interest - found a video with some very intense shuffling...R33 on dynopack....skip to about 40 seconds into video..

so that's what shuffling sounds like .... F**** was thinking what the hell these guys are on about.... .going back to reading mode :)

Yeh i reckon that could be quite annoying and other peeps would ask you every time what's wrong with your car lol!

I've never had it but I'm assuming it doesn't do much harm to anything...although I think someone on here said that it did make their car shudder a bit?

Running-7s, had shocking shuffle, car is otherwise pretty much bog stock. The problem ended up being damage to the front of the exhaust cam, which was resulting in the ignition timing moving possibly 15 degrees. The other issue we found after replacing the cam was that the timing has to be set using a plug lead between the coil and plug on 1, not the loop at the back of the head.

Since fixing these 2 things I have only had it shuffle once, and was testing to see if I could get it, very gently lifting off on small throttle opening. Anyone getting shuffle I can not recomend strongly enough checking basics, like timing..

Running-7s, had shocking shuffle, car is otherwise pretty much bog stock. The problem ended up being damage to the front of the exhaust cam, which was resulting in the ignition timing moving possibly 15 degrees. The other issue we found after replacing the cam was that the timing has to be set using a plug lead between the coil and plug on 1, not the loop at the back of the head.

Since fixing these 2 things I have only had it shuffle once, and was testing to see if I could get it, very gently lifting off on small throttle opening. Anyone getting shuffle I can not recomend strongly enough checking basics, like timing..

Wow that sounded pretty nasty what you had there! Well I'll be taking it down to one of the tuners at the coast like Mercury or Godzilla for a decent tune - the people round where I live have no idea on tuning imports, let alone 26's.

Iplen are u running the stock intake pipes?

I am now, I had an aftermarket one but it was leaking, and didn't offer any obvious benefit until I read above about the mods to the turbo pipe, which a/m one had done. Does have an Apexi suction kit and HKS hard piping.

Yeh I read that the stock intake pipework along with the AFM's etc creates enough drag to slow down the turbos down low thus reducing the shuffle affect. If you totally streamline the intake side and the exhaust side you give those buggers free reign down low - spin up way too fast! I think it's the sharp bends and the corrugations in the rubber intake pipes that do the trick....drag and turbulence galore lol

Ok the -7's i just installed and tune have slight shuffle on low throttle loads like slight incline etc has a restrictive 2.5inch cat and made 277kw on 18psi which then led to coilpacks dying on high boost. On 14psi it made 255kw

Ok the -7's i just installed and tune have slight shuffle on low throttle loads like slight incline etc has a restrictive 2.5inch cat and made 277kw on 18psi which then led to coilpacks dying on high boost. On 14psi it made 255kw

Nice work! Yeh I ordered my -9's a couple days ago so might be fitting them on the weekend. So what sort of plumbing are you running - you got all your stock stuff still on there including factory BOV's?

Are those npower dumps heaps dodgy?

Lol his car must be much better than the 211kw lolz.

What do you reckon the end result would be with a new cat and coil packs?

Hey just read your sig - I didn't know you have -9's ;) 400 horsies at 18 pounds is quite a nice figure.

That would be my mates car. He's got a intercooler hard pipe kit and other than turbos and dumps its stock.

I told him about that shitty cat. Haha.

Yeh I read on some other forums that it's the removal of the stock bov's and putting in a hard piping kit that does it. The BOV's do some interesting stuff....they actually open to almost half way when you blip the throttle to get some air into the engine quicker by bypassing the turbos. All this gear apparently also stops or minimises shuffle.

But I will know for sure soon as I'll be putting my -9's on with FULL factory intake and compressor to cooler plumbing.

Well, I've observed the bov's doing this myself...not exactly sure how much they influence shuffle down low...they do open down low so they would take some of the air away from the turbos (sucking it back thru the recirc pipe and stealing it before it its the compressor....but after running thru afm offcourse)

The reason why the stock intake piping reduces shuffle is because it generates so much drag inside it's piping (corrugations in the rubber piping, afm mesh etc etc) that it effectively throttles the turbos by just enough to stop them getting too far ahead of themselves which would cause shuffle (too much air for engine to ingest etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...