Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I would appreciate some advice from experienced owners.

Basically i just purchased a Apexi PFC as a base for all mods I want to know if there is anything else i might as well do prior to getting the Pfc tuned.

I have a standard R33 minor mods list as follows.

Cat back exhaust

Front mount cooler

Boost controller

Im currently in the market for a Bell mouth dump pipe and front pipe and cat.

Should i bother with a bigger fuel pump or will standard cope with a higher boost setting?

As above said I want to know if there is anything else i might as well do prior to getting the Pfc tuned and squeezing the most Kilowatts out without swapping turbo as yet.

Any PFC Tuners people have had a good experience with I dont mind paying if the work is worth it?

  • new panel air filter for std airbox or pod enclosure with cold air feed
  • dump and front pipe a must
  • check coil packs for any visual damage or cracks
  • boost gauge if not running PFC boost kit

In regards to standard airbox ever since i installed the front mount i cant get the cold air snorkel back on the air box because of the top pipe so i bought a pod need to source enclosure

Make sure the fuel pressure is monitored while you are boosting it up and tuning. And be prepared to buy a new 040 or equivalent if the pump shows any sign of not being able to keep up. Don't wait for it to fail, but there's no need to spend the coin immediately if it is OK.

That said, if it is the original pump, then it is running on the borrowed time part of its life, so a pre-emptive change out is not silly.

Go find someone with identical mods, copy their map, go find a tuner and get the A/F ratios and ignition tidied up (if needed) so they charge you less.

So many times, I've seen people fork out up to $1k for a "so called" tune from scratch, when most of the time it's a copy and paste job.

I recommend you highflow the turbo before hitting the dyno. Your stock turbo is just going to f*ck out once you up the boost.

The following should be done and can be expected (not taking into consideration your current mods):

JJR bellmouth front/dump

3" highflow cat

3" cat back

Hypergear highflow turbo

FMIC

Walbro fuel pump

Provided all other aspects of the car are in good condition you should get 220-230rwkw without changing the stock injectors or AFM @ 15 psi.

I have read that the stock injectors are not as great above that pressure level and it is known that is already the limit of your stock AFM. Personally I would run the above setup if wanting a quick car not exceeding 250rwkw.

Make sure the fuel pressure is monitored while you are boosting it up and tuning. And be prepared to buy a new 040 or equivalent if the pump shows any sign of not being able to keep up. Don't wait for it to fail, but there's no need to spend the coin immediately if it is OK.

That said, if it is the original pump, then it is running on the borrowed time part of its life, so a pre-emptive change out is not silly.

ok so 040 internal pump is a must cheers!

Definately change the pump.

Where are u located?

I'm located in Western Sydney

Go find someone with identical mods, copy their map, go find a tuner and get the A/F ratios and ignition tidied up (if needed) so they charge you less.

So many times, I've seen people fork out up to $1k for a "so called" tune from scratch, when most of the time it's a copy and paste job.

I haven't gotten a quote for a tune as yet. although saving money and tuning time would be ideal!! is this a difficult process copying maps is it as simple as changing settings via the controller

I recommend you highflow the turbo before hitting the dyno. Your stock turbo is just going to f*ck out once you up the boost.

The following should be done and can be expected (not taking into consideration your current mods):

JJR bellmouth front/dump

3" highflow cat

3" cat back

Hypergear highflow turbo

FMIC

Walbro fuel pump

Provided all other aspects of the car are in good condition you should get 220-230rwkw without changing the stock injectors or AFM @ 15 psi.

I have read that the stock injectors are not as great above that pressure level and it is known that is already the limit of your stock AFM. Personally I would run the above setup if wanting a quick car not exceeding 250rwkw.

The high-flow does have a nice ring to it i might have to wait an extra week to come up with more funds and look for one on the forum.

Dont mean to start a debate which fuel pump is better "Bosch 040" or Walbro 400lp both intank?

Thanks guys.

Dont mean to start a debate which fuel pump is better "Bosch 040" or Walbro 400lp both intank?

Hard to avoid starting a debate on that one. I went with the Bosch pump, mounted in tank it is the loudest thing in my car. But I'm reasonably confident it won't just up and shit itself. Walbros are quieter, but the internet derived failure statistics on them are not as comforting. Horses for courses there I'm afraid.

Hard to avoid starting a debate on that one. I went with the Bosch pump, mounted in tank it is the loudest thing in my car. But I'm reasonably confident it won't just up and shit itself. Walbros are quieter, but the internet derived failure statistics on them are not as comforting. Horses for courses there I'm afraid.

I dont mind Fuel pump noise lets me know its working at least.

you will need a FC Datalogit Kit, just borrow someone's kit, the rest is piss easy

If anyone can help me with this I will be more than happy to pay for there time in cash or beer currency goes in both!!

you will need a FC Datalogit Kit, just borrow someone's kit, the rest is piss easy

I actually sold mine a while ago when I "thought" I got out of the car scene. Speak to DVS Jes, I'm assuming he's a good honest tuner from what he shares on the forum.

If you ever go anything else like Adaptronic or Vipec you don't need an extra box to connect it up to a laptop. I got a mate that can get Adaptronic ECUs much cheaper than most stores.

BTW, just get a Nismo drop in fuel pump, less headache in the long run, less noise, no fuel starvation problems, no dying fuel pumps, no worrying about fake yumcha spec Walbros.

Bosch 040 will be fine and cheaper for your needs

Just bought one! thanks for the advice boys!

I can tune it if u want buddy. Will do u a competitive price too.

DVS JEZ you have PM

how come no one mentioned the deatchworks pump, theres a 300LP/H one thats under $200, if you decide to go for more power later you wont have to buy another pump,

When i got my power fc tuned at the same stage , they had to replace

*Coil packs

*Dump inadequate

* Fuel pump

* plugs

*Clutch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
×
×
  • Create New...