Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That section is under the unregistered vehicles section, meaning you also need a permit.

If the car is un-rego'd then ignore the rest of what im typing.

I cannot see any reference to towing a registered vehicle in that manner, so it might be a grey area it would seem.

I'd suggest calling VicRoads and ask them to point you in the correct direction/area of their website where you can read it if you want to be 100% certain.

OR

Just do it anyway. Screen dump the VicRoads page, and say "well it's legal with a permit for un-rego, so given i have rego i do not need a permit" - should work.

I think as long as you are resonable and have the hazards on, use a rope, the car being towed has operational tail-lights etc they won't give you too much grief over it especially if you are not going very far.

You can only move an unregistered vehicle on the road when:

  • driving with an Unregistered Vehicle Permit
  • driving to VicRoads for a vehicle registration inspection
  • towing – on a trailer or behind a registered vehicle.

The way that reads i would (and have in the past) conclude that if your driving it any where but to vic roads you need a permit but if you towing it behind a registered vehicle you dont need a permit, have done this before and was over taken by a cop and they did nothing.

a simple sign in the window or on the boot or bumper stating "ON TOW" alsio gives people a heads up too to stay clear and give you some room. every time i've had to tow my mates R-100 we've done that and never had any hassle from the cops, and even had a few drive past us as its on tow. just a little common courtesy i guess goes a long way at times :no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...