Run In Computer Choice

[Room42]

Hi guys.

I just got the rb30 block, rb25det head and (obviously rb30) crank back from the machine shop today along with the internals. Cp pistons and precision h-beam rods. I am using a garrett gt3582r, 6 boost ex mani etc. I'm going to put it together on Saturday.

Anyway I am after some good opinions about what computer I should use to run it in. I can use the stock rb25 computer with the stock injectors and afm or I can use my aftermarket computer.

Main reason I ask is because I will have to (I'm too lazy/don't have enough time to) tune the aftermarket one to suit the run in period/boost whereas possibly the stocker will do the job. I have a wideband so if the stocker is no good then I will find out pretty quickly.

The run in tune will be done to a max of about 4500 to 5000 rpm for 500km and the lowest boost I can run is about 6 or 7 psi.

I have used the stock computer with the same turbo setup with the rb25 and it worked fine to about 10 psi or so.

Anyway over to you

[jangles]

When you decide to not be 'lazy' use the aftermarket with correct tune

[R31Nismoid]

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

[Room42]

That would be ideal Jangles. The only thing is that my wife isn't to keen to help tune anymore cos she is scared of the car. That means only tuning on the weekend with my mate. Or dyno time. I think it is a waste of money paying to get a 7 psi 5k rpm tune that is temporary. I am hoping for an "easy out" with the stock ecu. If it will work with the rb30det that is.

Someone tried the stock ecu for this?

[Room42]

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

I have done that run in myself Ash plenty of times. Although I did the bottom end (bearings) run in for longer on the dyno. It was recommended by the machinist that I do a longer on the road run in.

[Room42]

There will be dyno time with this engine once it is turned up so maybe I should go nismoids way.

[Room42]

And Jangles way. lol

[zebra]

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

Dont even need that with current gen materials lol

Start engine > No Leaks > Shut Down > No leaks > Start up > Full Load tune begin

[Room42]

Dont even need that with current gen materials lol

Start engine > No Leaks > Shut Down > No leaks > Start up > Full Load tune begin

Even though we are better off these days with machining and parts I would still recommend some heat cycling before turning it up. What about the stock ecu though? That is what I was curious about.

[51NNA]

^^ Run in is a thing of the past, if you really want to run it in do 50kms on the dyno with varied amounts of load. I wouldnt use a stock computer...last thing you need is it to wash the bores or lean out.

Edited May 2, 2012 by 51NNA

[zebra]

Even though we are better off these days with machining and parts I would still recommend some heat cycling before turning it up. What about the stock ecu though? That is what I was curious about.

Big Turbo Rb30 = Stock ECU having a fit, and run stupid rich = glazed bores and crap ring seal

There isnt much to heat cycle unless you found a virgin block and head

[Room42]

^^ Run in is a thing of the past, if you really want to run it in do 50kms on the dyno with varied amounts of load. I wouldnt use a stock computer...last thing you need is it to wash the bores or lean out.

I don't think running in should be underestimated although it can be done on the dyno. Yeah I noticed that there were lean parts with the 25 with the turbo setup coming on boost. It seemed to stay around twelve to one on boost though.

Anyway I think I have enough now to make a choice. I was going to try the stock ecu etc and try the long run in to save money lol. Next week I will get the low rpm stuff done on the road with the aftermarket ecu and when it is "run in" I will head down the dyno and tune it.

Oh well I guess the stock ecu can stay in the shed along with all the other stock parts (in case of defect).

Thanks for the input guys

Edited May 2, 2012 by Room42

[51NNA]

Yeah I still give any build 50kms on the dyno, keeping under 4000 and 3psi, Have fun!

[rob82]

I would use whatever ecu runs the engine best. If you've never run the aftermarket ecu then I would not be setting it up on a new engine if possible.

And believe it or not but bearing life will increase with a gradual progression of loading. I didn't believe a bearing would bed in but I've seen it while dyno testing a highly loaded thrust bearing and monitoring local bearing pressures and thrust load temps.

[jangles]

I don't think running in should be underestimated although it can be done on the dyno. Yeah I noticed that there were lean parts with the 25 with the turbo setup coming on boost. It seemed to stay around twelve to one on boost though.

using a stock ecu would be worse for the engine as a whole.

[WMDC35]

i'd go straight on the dyno, tune at run in would be more critical than process?

[SS8_Gohan]

don't a lot of the aftermarket ECU's have base maps anyway? so it's not like you'd be starting from scratch with a a/m ECU - as for running in, Rob @ RIPS has mentioned a few times that it's straight to full load tune once the thing is together, and considering you've built an RB30, just go for it. If it's good enough for RIPS it's certainly good enough for everyone else.

[ARTZ]

Im going with what Nismoid said...

[Room42]

My aftermarket ecu already has a decent tune in it for the rb25det so it wont take much to adjust it for the 30. Probably a couple of percent on the fuel map will get it close to driveable, Also just shifting the big jump in the fuel map where it used to come on boost down 800 rpm or so.

The standard computer does a good job of running the rb25 but maybe not so good at running a rb30 bottom end. I don't know.

[WMDC35]

just chuck it on the dyno as others say, if this makes the engine fail it was doomed anyway