Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting My ECU tuned by toshi for my R33 to improve power and driveability with my current mods and was wondering if anyone else was intersted to see if we could get a group discount?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/298912-cheapest-mail-order-r33-ecu-remap-only-400-also-r32-r34-and-silvia/

Who is Toshi?

We have some awesome dynotuners that'll tune your car, in person, on actual dynometers, for really good prices...

Not sure if anyone would be keen on a 'mail order tune'?

Me personally, I'll stick to boostworx/willall

-D

Im looking at getting My ECU tuned by toshi for my R33 to improve power and driveability with my current mods and was wondering if anyone else was intersted to see if we could get a group discount?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/298912-cheapest-mail-order-r33-ecu-remap-only-400-also-r32-r34-and-silvia/

Every car is different. You can use a tune from another car with similar mods as a starting point but then change it to tailor your car. The car he bases uour tune on may be in better or worse conditon, which means it wont work correctly in your car, etc.

Who is Toshi?

We have some awesome dynotuners that'll tune your car, in person, on actual dynometers, for really good prices...

Not sure if anyone would be keen on a 'mail order tune'?

Me personally, I'll stick to boostworx/willall

-D

+1 stick to a local tuner that you can go and see and talk to. That way you can ask them questions and they can do a touch up if something isnt quite right. They will also be able to tell you if your car isnt responding to the tune very well...unlike a mail order tune.

I think he want to cheaper tune .

Mail order tune is only $400.(R33 ecu tune)

Yes , real time tune is better than mail order but my mail order tune is much better than like a mins , Blitz etc ecu.

Because my tune data is for Australia fuel.

If I come to SA and real time tune (R33 ecu tune) from $600 R33 ecu exchange (min 3 people)

I think local tuner $1000-1200 plus Z32 ECU around $100-200.

local tuners fit nistune board and tune for around 6-800.

Nistune board is $242 plus install $60 total $302.

Z32 ecu need modified for R33 cost $60-80.

Z32 ECU $100-200.

So just ecu $462-582.

How much is dyno tune?

Is SA very cheap?

In Sydney around $150 /hour.(around 3-4 hours)

spot on Dion. When I was calling around getting quotes, I got told around the $1K mark roughly. Just go a power fc or nistune :P more headroom for when you want to mod the f**k out of your car :D

I think he do not want to spend over $1000 for ecu.

Im using nistune product (Im nistune dealer) but some customer do not want to spend over $1000 for ecu.

So Im doing chip tune and nistune both.

Chip tune and nistune is exactly same performance.

i was going off rb20 ecu nistuned. i paid 700 from boostworx.

i would still pay 1k and have a remappable ecu, instead of 600 chips each time that are close to a proper tune (maybe)

and yes, poor man pays twice

I paid a lot less for the above and even had a new o2 sensor my was shagged

Classic chassis - ashley hook me up , but need a metal cat and injectors

And cam gear tweek before a decent run in tune , right now its a base tune only , the car

Was amazing compared to the stock nissan tune

Actually drivable torque monster 343nm to 503nm jump from base ecu

On low nissan boost and high flow cat failing at 6400 rpm still had 1000 rpm to go and making power still with rock solid boost from 3 k

I thought yours was tuned local? Boost work, or speed lab.

Does toshi dyno tune or road tune the car?

he does both, road tune then takes is to the dyno to check power and tweak it a bit if need be

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...