Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 teeth out ? jeebus ! Pull it all down and check everything, balancer, key damage, bolts, adjusters, cam key to CAS, but most of all cam timing, get it back on track. Then do compression test, if it fails don't panic as it will more than likely be a lot of bent valves. I wouldn't mind betting the original timing belt is still there and has lost a few ribs.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well.......I found the problem. I went to pull off the crank pulley and noticed that when i went to pull it off i could turn the pulley by hand and noticed that the crank gear wasnt turning with the pulley. After finally getting the pulley off, its key was intact. However, the crank gear key was almost completely sheared off except for about an 1/8 inch was left, leaving a nice groove in that keyway. If i can figure out how to post pics with my phone i will put them on here.

And if you repair the keyway ? What then, put it back together and find out the valves are bent ? Just because you couldn't turn it all the way with your hand doesn't mean it wasn't turning more than you think with the engine going. An engine at idle will have more strength than your biggest mate with a large set of stillsens. If the collar or keyway is dammaged in any way, sorry to say but it may be a crank out job. Not your fault, but I'd be having words to the previous owner. Did it give any hint on the test drive like, power ok then not as much, revs hard but no low end, then revs normal for a few minutes then not ?

Seeing as I've had it for about a month and a half now and when I picked it up and drove it back from a couple of states away it had excellent power and pickup throughout the rev band. No issues were apparent. It was only until recently that it seemed a little off. But I thought that was due to me rerouting the pcv system to a factory style setup and connecting the idle air control valve seeing as how the previous owner had not plumbed the piping at all and it was a huge vacuum leak from external air past the mass air flow. However the previous owner had had the car tuned around that issue so it was running super rich to account for the vacuum leak. The worst part about it all is that I was going to have the car tuned the same day that it decided to not start due to my original ignition timing issue

If there is any damage at all to the crank keyways then pull the motor and replace it. otherwise if you can get some parts cheap enough it might be worth trying your luck with a new/good condition key and balancer to see if the valves are fine. Don't spend too much fixing it though, as you might be up for a new motor anyway.

I don't think I have any issues with valve or head damage. I think the damage to the keyway only allowed valves to open enough to not be able to see any vacuum on my boost gauge under cranking. I didn't have any engine noise prior to it not starting.

Hoping so. Im going to by a new crank gear and two keyways to be safe and explore some repair options. I like fab and custom work az well as re-engineering things that are broken to work again. We will see..... updates as progress ensues.

  • 1 month later...

Ok, back from the dead. I fixed the keyway problem. New keyways, new crank sprocket, fixed worn spot and checked compression. 125-135 psi across the board. Have fuel, spark and compression on all cylinders. Timing is dead up. The car will crank, start and run for about 2 seconds and then shut off. Any ideas? Commander shows timing advance, injector duty climbs and RPMs reach approx 2,000 and MAF is functioning correctly (i tried a spare and unplugged it for kicks, no change) then it stalls. Boost control kit is turned off also.

Just to give a little run down of events that lead up to my current situation:

I installed dual catch cans properly based on the Mines setup as well as completing the IACV hose setup and replaced O2 sensor, after which the car seemed to idle better initially, as well as increased gas milage, but noticed it needed to be tuned because of the IAC not being hooked up before (it was tuned for not having the IAC hooked up). I drove the car and noticed I had extended start times and occassionaly no start problems for 10 minutes at a time, until the day I was going to have it tuned. I drove the car to work, put new plugs in it and then got gas on lunch. Came back to work and parked it, waiting for my tuner guy to arrive. Once he did I went to start it and it would turn over but not start. After which, down the road, I discovered the crank sprocket issue. After repairing said problem the car now starts and stalls almost immediately. I have made sure there is constant fuel pressure, spark, good compression as stated above, a full tank of gas, all fuses are okay, no vaccum leaks, and the boost control kit is turned off. I also had the tuner, the same day it messed up, save my tune and initalize it three seperate times. Of course it is something simple I am overlooking. Ignition timing and injector duty, as well as AFM readings, climb upon inital startup until it stalls. Throttle input makes it stall quicker. I have adjusted the idle air control valve screw both directinos and experience no change.

(Gun to head)

Anyone care to save a life? LOL

Is everyone else just as stumped as me on this one? I'm going to try and re-initialize the FC tonight as long as I can get the serial-to-usb to connect with datalogit. Any tips on setting up comm ports for it to connect? I have installed the needed usb driver as well, but the computer still won't link with the FC. And the led is lit on the box too. All of this seems to be one big snowball effect.

U need to be sure there is adequate fuel pressure at the rail.

Also try adding fuel in the inj trim and see if it will start. May be too lean.

Have u rechecked ur spark plugs? They may be fouled.

Crank it for a few seconds. Then pull the spark plugs out. Are they wet? are they dry? Let them tell u whats happening.

Post up results

Definitely getting adequate fuel. There is a gauge mounted on the rail and The pressure never drops below starting psi and the plugs are very wet and black from the 1.5 second start and stalls. I finally got a compatible serial to usb adapter (Dynex brand at Best Buy here in the states) and was finally able to initialize the FC but I don't know how/what to input MAF and injector settings. Z32 MAF and 1000cc injectors. Im fine wtih mechanical fixes but not so savvy with tuning. Any info on this?

Set afm as vg30(z32)

Set injectors as 40% which should be a little rich. See if it starts then trim the inj percentage if there is a bit of black smoke from the exhaust. It wont be perfect as the latency is still off.

Then get the car tuned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...