Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No proper ECU?

Without a ECU really you aren't realistically going to make any more than 160-170rwkw. So there is a reason you can't believe it - it's because it's not true.

The car should run 110mph with over 200rwkw, I bet it doesn't run better than 104 ;)

How do you get better mileage with 10% ethanol? You need to use more fuel of it to get the benefits from it.

Simlar to E85, but on a lesser scale of course

been using the united 95 e blend in the missus stock as a rock honda for a while now and the economy is just as good as it was with bp98

go figure.. ;)

I have a dyno sheet stating that the car made over 200 rwkw, so what you think the ecu is not standard?

I could make my car pull 600rwkw on a dyno if i wanted, doesn't means it's worth the paper it's printed on. :)

Do you even know if you have an after market ECU? If it's chipped etc?

If you have factory one, it is exactly what we all told you before - it is not possible to "tune" a dead stock ECU.

In that instance I doubt very highly you are making over 200rwkw (legitimately). 200rwkw is pretty much "the limit" for a stock turbo with a proper tuneable ECU and so on.

A tune would cost upwards of $400 for entry level, so if you didn't at the least hand over $500 I reckon you are being led up the garden path.

A properly tuned ECU will give you a much better midrange, drive abilty and improved economy over a stock ECU

It's either you can't read or your having trouble understanding, I know you can't tune a standard ecu. All I said was that the car made over 200 rwkw. I might have said it in a previous post but that was my mistake. Just wish people read the comments before replying

It's either you can't read or your having trouble understanding, I know you can't tune a standard ecu. All I said was that the car made over 200 rwkw. I might have said it in a previous post but that was my mistake. Just wish people read the comments before replying

You asked if it was OK to use a standard ecu? Why would you ask this if you didn't have a standard ecu? Instead of wishing for people to read comments (which they did anyway) start wishing for some common sense. Give santa enough time to locate some and deliver it to you for Christmas.

You have people here trying to help you out based on info you provided and your being a smartass.

at the end of the day, what everyone is saying is that the stock turbo simply cant flow enough for more than 200rwkw

generally speaking they max out at 190-195 rwkw and that is running 14psi with a full ecu (more boost than is really a good idea with a stock turbo)

a stock ecu will hit rich and retard mode when you go over around 10 psi and will pull timing out. this tends to limit the car to say 180rwkw TOPS

these facts have been backed up 11ty billion times on these forums.

what people are saying is that if the car makes over 200rwkw on a stock ecu with a stock turbo, then the "tuner" is fudging the results - which is simple to do.

end of the day, does the car run fast? do you enjoy driving it? are you happy? if yes, then just enjoy it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...