Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

shotgun that airbox lols

FOR SALE R32 GTR Parts

Desno 720cc injectors - $400
HKS super dragger 3 inch to 3.5inch cat back exhaust - $200
white 5 spoke rims with brand new maxxis tyres - $650
R32 GTR stock airbox with brand new filter - $180

Txt me on 0410371188

Cleaning out the shed a bit more.

Got a pair of R34 GTT seats. Passengers in great condition, drivers is good except for a slight split in the stitching on the side bolster. Nothing some coordination and a needle and thread won't fix. Looking for $150.

post-88452-0-54781800-1370177223_thumb.jpg

Also got an oil cooler i have had for years, Off a 13b of some sort I think. Has banjo fittings. No lines. Looking for $80.

post-88452-0-57965200-1370177242_thumb.jpg

Lastly I have a Greddy Oil cooler (just the cooler, no relocation) with earls fittings, lines and sandwich plate for an R34...should fit all RB's though.

Looking for $500.

post-88452-0-90535500-1370177261_thumb.jpg

I'm open to offers so hit me up.

Another update

Stripping S2 R33 Parts

Prices are negotiable.
Can post or take a car load to Sydney.
Located in a Canberra

GTST wing $100
(SOLD) - ECU $150
(SOLD) - Wiring loom $150

Side skirts $100
Rear bar $75
CD player surround $70
(SOLD) - Double din CD/DVD player (alpine) $400

(SOLD) - Shifter surround $40
Centre console $80
Front seats (minor tear on drivers bolster) $150
Rear seats $100
Boot hatch $80
Tail lights $150 (KR4 Silver)
Skyline rear centre garnish $50
Door windows $100 each
Window regs $100 each
Aftermarket cat back exhaust $300

RB20 Turbo (no shaft play about 140,000kms) $200
(SOLD) - G4 Racing Coilovers $400 ono
(SOLD) - Engine $600 (170,000 kms Long block, healthy and strong)

(SOLD) - Diff $200
(SOLD) - Half shafts $100 each

Rear adjustable camber arms $100
19" Maxis Super Hero rims $900 with brand new tyres
19" ROH Modena 3 Piece Rims $1600 with 80% front 50% rear
Turbosmart boost tee $40
Turbosmart boost guage $40
Aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends $70
Stock clutch and flywheel $120
Passenger front guard (perfect condition) $80
Tail shaft $120
Starter motor $100
Alternator $100
Front and rear Brake Calipers $350
Brake rotors x4 - $200
Hubs $300
(SOLD) - Coil packs $150
(D/S SOLD)
- Rear Lower control arms $60 each
Rear cradle $50
Front lower control arms $70 each
Seat belts x 4 $150

(SOLD) - Drivers door cards $80

Passenger door card $80
(SOLD) - Drivers side window switch elects $100

Passenger side window switch elects $50
Window switch surrounds $80 each
Side mirrors $90 each
Steering surround $50
AC control unit $80
Window wipers $20 each
Fuel flap $60
Fuel cap $20
Bonnet latch $50
Boot latch $50
Power steering reservoir $150
(SOLD) - TPS $50
Top dash AC vents $20 each
Passenger side headlight $100
Power steering rack $100
CAS $100
VCT Solenoid $70
Turbo Lines $40
ABS Box $200
Manual Conversion (clutch master $80, clutch slave $80, clutch pedal $50, brake pedal $60) or kit for $225
Nissan Prince Foot well carpets x5 $300
Glove box with working latch $50
Fuel Pump $50
Fuel pump cradle $75
Antenna $75
Lock set (steering lock, door locks, boot lock with key) $200
Sway bars front and rear $50 each
Boot carpets and sides $100

Prob more that I have forgotten.

NO FRONT BAR
NO INTERCOOLER or PIPING
NO RB25 TURBO
NO GEARBOX

NO DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT

Also if anyone is interested Abels smash repairs have a r33 in the back drivers side front is rooted but the engine is good is rb25 with turbo he has for sale also you can make him an offer on any other parts you may want just thought I would let everyone know

August Japan wheels for sale

Front: 5x114.3 17x7 +30

Rear: 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17x8 +38

$400 for the set or $150 front / $250 rear pairs

3 tyres are bald

P1010784.jpg

P1010785.jpg

Thanks!

$300 if anyone is interested! They are ending on eBay tomorrow but prefer to sell local so I don't have to wrap them for postage.

i would have taken them for 300 but i just brought racing seat... if i sell my wheels on the weekend i will pm you and see if you have em still

$300 if anyone is interested! They are ending on eBay tomorrow but prefer to sell local so I don't have to wrap them for postage.

  • 2 weeks later...

Greddy/Grex/Trust oil cooler, lines and sandwich plate (just cooler, not oil filter relocation) to suit R34 gtt but should fit all RB's.

Core is Trust branded, 12 row. 280mm by 180mm by 50mm.
Earls fittings, sandwich plate is Grex branded and has an inbuilt thermostat that I believe opens at 75 degrees.

Looking for around $500 neg.

post-88452-0-63055400-1372074993_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...