Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, In the 3+ years since I got my 33, I have Gathered WAY TOO MUCH STUFF!

This is not all of it but it's a start, Prices are ono...

Buy my Stuff and Things!


R33 S1 Turbo, Minimal shaft play but condition unknown as unused by me. $150. SOLD.

R33 S2 Turbo, Minimal shaft play but condition unknown as unused by me. $180.

R33 side indicators. $15 / pair... (more than 1 pair available)

Stock Rubber intake Pipe for GTS-t $15 (more than 1 available)

R33 Coupe Rear Garnish (Clear) $50.00

Various NISSAN Relays $10 each.

GTR BOV $80 (More than 1 Available) 1 SOLD Pending Payment/Pickup.
Some piping for GTR Bov also.

GTS-t Bov $40

R33 Crossover J pipe $20 (more than 1 available)

Stock R33 GTS-t Dump $20

New Never Used Stainless Split Dump Pipe $80

Stock R33 GTS-t Frontpipe and Gutted Cat $20

3" GTS-t Frontpipe larger section welded in the middle. Ugly but Effective. $40

Stock Series 2 R33 Coilpacks $80 / set of 6 (more than 1 set available)

Stock R33 Side Mount Cooler $50.

R33 4door Tail lights and Garnish - Both Series 1 and Series 2.

R33 Coupe Series 2 Wing (White) $100

R33 4door Wing (Silver) $100

R33 GTS-t Airbox and Snorkle $100


**More will be added in time.

**R33 GTS-t RB25DET Rocker Covers $100 pair, I might even clean them for you.

**R33 GTS-t Stock ECUs Series 1 and Series 2... $100 Each.

If it's Not Listed, I may have one... Just ask.

PM is best. Pics can be provided.

I have a bit for sale.
Our move to melbourne looks like it is going to be happening a lot sooner than we thought and i really don't want to cart this stuff with me so it's up for grabs.

I have a staggered set of forged 17'' Rays Volk Challenge wheels fronts are 17x8 + 32 i believe rears are 17x9 +40

The paint is coming off all 4 but with a strip back and spray they will looks schmick. 3 have very very minor scuffing, one is a bit more severe but if you get them fixed up you will never know. I was going to keep them but now that i'm moving i would rather have the cash and less stuff to move.

They have some average 235/35 's fitted to them rears on 80% fronts maybe 30%.

Looking for $600 ono

post-88452-0-67324000-1386934471_thumb.jpg

I have a front mount kit and pipe work to suit an r34 and should fit r33. It is painted purple but should be easy enough to strip or paint black if you arent man enough for it. You will need to trim your fan for this one. The core is really thick on this one. Will get measurements tomorrow.

Looking for $200 ono

post-88452-0-31210200-1386934617_thumb.jpg

I also have a metal cold air box in black to suit an r34 gtt.

Only used it for a few days until I went to a return flow intercooler.

If you have a return flow or side mount you should be able to use this by just making a few cuts.

I didn't because I already had a high octane old air box which suited.

Comes with screws and nuts.

Looking for $115 ono

post-88452-0-73042800-1386934758_thumb.jpg

I also found these at the back of the shed.

They are an old school set of 15'' x 6'' and 6.5'' works ewing mesh in 4 stud 114.3 pcd.

They have seen better days but you can pull the centres out and have them sand blasted and give the rim a good polish.
Would look awesome in gold or bronze. The only issue with these is that last time i moved i lost the key for the centre caps.

Should be easy to source from RHD japan or something like that. They have 205 55 tyres of them i believe. one pair is about 55% the others are almost gone.

Looking for $200 ono

post-88452-0-83837300-1386935014_thumb.jpg

Will post more up as I go through the shed.

Edited by azathoth

Also have a Turbosmart BOV (not sure what type buy it's pretty big) has adjustable spring pressure and comes with adaptor plate to fit in the stock BOV position on the crossover pipe.
Will post up picture tomorrow.

$140 ono

Old School Skate Decks...

I have 5 old Classic Skateboards that I don't need.

These are from back in the day. (20 - 25 years old)

Condition ranges from Not Too Bad to Pretty Damn good. :P

Collectables for the right person.

Mark Gonzales

Ron Allen

Bones Ripper

Steve Caballero

Christian Hosoi

post-78856-0-25023300-1387188724_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-17523500-1387188705_thumb.jpg

$200 for the lot.

Hi guys

Currently looking at selling my RB20DET ENGINEERED 1989 R31 Skyline Silhouette so I can try something different. I've owned the car for roughly 3 years now, mostly using it at Wakefield Park track days. It's well setup for both grip and drift while still being able to drive around town comfortably and legally as the car has an engineers certificate for the modifications performed. Oil has been changed after every track day the car has done, roughly every 2000km's. The only reason I stopped using it as a daily driver was someone tried to steal it once and as I work nights I wasn't comfortable leaving it out anymore. The body could do with some love but the paint for the most part is still in good condition which is quite rare for a 20+ year old red car!

** NOTE car will be sold WITH Road Worthy Certificate **

Here is a list of parts although I've probably forgotten somethings.

1989 Series 3 Silhouette
Red over silver paint
350,000 km's on chassis
200,000 km's on engine (roughly)

Engine:
R32 RB20DET
Front mount Intercooler
Pod filter
3 inch cat back exhaust
Slightly re-tuned factory ecu
Stock boost
140RWKW

Driveline:
RB20 Gearbox
Exedy heavy duty clutch
Short shifter
Kaaz 2 Way and 4.11 Gears (diff rebuilt less than 10,000 k's ago)

Suspension:

Front.
S13 BC BR type RH coilovers
S13 LCA's and knuckles
Garage 7 SMM Offset R31 Conversion Rack Spacers
GP Sports S13 tie rods + ends
Custom adjustable castor rods
Whiteline swaybar
Whiteline strut brace
Reconditioned steering rack (less than 10,000 k's ago)
Lots of new Bushes

Rear.
S13 BC BR type RH coilovers
Whiteline swaybar
Adjustable panhard rod

Brakes:
R32 GTS-t front calipers
GTS rotors
Stock rear
Bendix ultimate pads Front
QFM Super X Rear
Modified handbrake

Exterior:
Rising sun bonnet
Removed rear spoiler but comes with the original silhouette one
Passenger fender in need of paint

Interior:
330mm deep dish steering wheel
Autometer water temp gauge
Import drivers seat
Basic stereo
Battery relocated to the boot

Wheels:
17x7's with brand new tyres (not pictured)

Price $6,500 WITH RWC

cpzr.jpg

Now that I have started packing early for the move and the house is full of boxes I am more than happy to take $450 for the rims which is also more reasonable.
I need somewhere to put these boxes and the wheels are in the way. Feel free to throw me offers on the other stuff too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...