Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Might be wrecking a R33 4 door soon (still in the process of paying for it). I need to wreck it down kind of quick so I'm hoping to pre-empt potential sale of parts before I accidentally throw bits away. I'm planning to keep the engine (motor, turbo, loom, ecu, Intercooler, etc), everything else should be forsale. It is a Series 1, manual, ABS model. Side impact pretty bad but glass is there.

Let me know if you are interested in buying some parts.

Might be wrecking a R33 4 door soon (still in the process of paying for it). I need to wreck it down kind of quick so I'm hoping to pre-empt potential sale of parts before I accidentally throw bits away. I'm planning to keep the engine (motor, turbo, loom, ecu, Intercooler, etc), everything else should be forsale. It is a Series 1, manual, ABS model. Side impact pretty bad but glass is there.

Let me know if you are interested in buying some parts.

What front bar does it have?

Hey guys,

I have a pair of 16x8 +33 lightweight 5 spoke rims with 225/45 advan AD08R tyres on them that I need to get rid of. Tyres are 1000km old including 1 trackday. I kept them when I sold my mr2 a couple of months back but unfortunately the rims don't clear the brakes on my 32 and I've got 18's now so these are useless to me. Looking for $300 for rims and tyres together or I can separate rims for $100 and tyres for $250.

Feel free to PM or SMS with any questions or for pics. Number is 0433414424.

Cheers,

Drew

ONE OF A KIND - 1989 R32 GTS-T FOUR DOOR FOR SALE

Many hours and $$$$$$ spent to create this beautiful R32 rebuild.

Over 2,000 views in SAU Garage.

All receipts and rebuild history.

Very reluctant sale due to OS posting.

POA

CONTACT Robert Wilson - 0411 744 813 or PM

Stroked RB22 motor
Custom arias forged pistons and rings
ACL comp bearings
Balanced
Blueprinted throughout
Full block machine and relieved with oil restrictors
N1 oil pump modified
Crankshaft shotpeened,grubscrewed,oil collar fitted and micro-polished
Spool h beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
Recon and ported head
Adjustable cam gears
Timing tensioner kit with gates belt and waterpump
Hi vol race sump with rear head drain
Cometic steel head gasket
Tomei 264 poncams
Tomei step 2 springs
Garret GT30/76 turbo
Intercooler
Custom catch can
650cc injectors
Splitfire coil packs
Z32 Air Flow Meter
Nistune ecu
Walbro 255 LPH hi flow fuel pump
Re-built four speed AUTO transmission with 1.5 torque converter
Pedders eXtreme XA Coil Overs
Hardrace Front Upper Adjustable Arms
Hardrace Rear Traction Rods
Hicas Lock Bar
Solid Rear Cradle Bushes
Slotted rotors with braided lines
3" exhaust with hi-flow cat
Vertex style body kit
King Wheels Camino Red 18x8
Federal 595RS-R - Front 225x40x18 Rear 235x40x18
Bare metal respray
Pantera leather seat trim by Alphaline Auto
Blitz Gauges 60mm - water temp, oil temp, boost
Momo Commando steering wheel
Memphis amp and speakers

Kenwood head-deck - DVD, handsfree, bluetooth

post-83928-0-88898600-1411342520_thumb.jpg

post-83928-0-66423300-1411342536_thumb.jpg

post-83928-0-67817800-1411342564_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...