Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am new to the world of cars and I will be purchasing a Nissan Skyline R33/34 around 2013 and I know I would like it in black matte (money permitting).

Is this something which can be achieved without losing an arm or a leg and without being dodgy?

Cheers for any help,

ッ.jp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399846-how-much-is-a-black-matte-respray/
Share on other sites

I talked to some painters recently regarding satin black and they said the cost of the paint is basically the same.. so im thinking you would be looking at a normal respray price, but if you were going with a matte black you wouldnt want it done cheaply! at least 5k i would think at a min.. but it would be a nightmare to maintain i would think...

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

The wrap above has been on my daily driven car for 2 years...

Is washed with Meguiars gold class car wash and was left outside un-garaged for a year through a brisbane summer and winter (not something i would suggest but is testament to the strength of the product)

You can use wash and wax on a wrap, but if its a matte colored wrap then naturally you wouldn't use a wash and wax or something that contains anything aimed at keeping your paint shiney, that would defeat the purpose. If your wrap went glossy or even satin from a matte finish then it sounds like you've used something you shouldn't have.

Yes you do need to clean it as quickly as possible as the vinyl 'can' stain, doesn't necessarily mean it will, but would you leave bird shit and tree sap on your paint? I don't think any regular enthusiast with decent paint would.

And in the end, if you stain/scratch/damage a panel, simply rip it off and have it re-wrapped in the same material....simple :)

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

This. There's a matte black c63 5 minds away from my house. Its been parked in the street for the past couple of weeks, looks like really cheap chalkboard now

I talked to some painters recently regarding satin black and they said the cost of the paint is basically the same.. so im thinking you would be looking at a normal respray price, but if you were going with a matte black you wouldnt want it done cheaply! at least 5k i would think at a min.. but it would be a nightmare to maintain i would think...

Might be able to get it done for 5k if it's just panels. Doing a proper job, including removing all glass and trim and spraying inside, there's no way you'll get it done for below 6k. And let's be honest, getting a matte black paint job done without getting the insides/engine bay done would look pretty terrible.

Might be able to get it done for 5k if it's just panels. Doing a proper job, including removing all glass and trim and spraying inside, there's no way you'll get it done for below 6k. And let's be honest, getting a matte black paint job done without getting the insides/engine bay done would look pretty terrible.

yea thats what i meat, min 5k at an absolute... if i were serious about doing it, i would probably budget around the 10k mark, as if your going to do it, it would be worth doing it right...... the first time

Can I assume that if polish, even mild, were used on the wrap or paint it could smooth out the texture and thus, leave a patchy look?

Exactly. Matte paint works by intentionally having imperfections in the paint that refract the light, reducing shine. Polishing the paint would fill in those imperfections and leave you with, as you said, a patchy paint job.

O

The wrap above has been on my daily driven car for 2 years...

Is washed with Meguiars gold class car wash and was left outside un-garaged for a year through a brisbane summer and winter (not something i would suggest but is testament to the strength of the product)

You can use wash and wax on a wrap, but if its a matte colored wrap then naturally you wouldn't use a wash and wax or something that contains anything aimed at keeping your paint shiney, that would defeat the purpose. If your wrap went glossy or even satin from a matte finish then it sounds like you've used something you shouldn't have.

Yes you do need to clean it as quickly as possible as the vinyl 'can' stain, doesn't necessarily mean it will, but would you leave bird shit and tree sap on your paint? I don't think any regular enthusiast with decent paint would.

And in the end, if you stain/scratch/damage a panel, simply rip it off and have it re-wrapped in the same material....simple :)

I was talking about matte paint not wrap, I say this in the first line of my post.

How much does a full wrap cost anyway, the best product I've seen has a life span of 5 yrs, OK if the car live in these garage and only come out on the weekend but from what I've seen they are lucky to get a couple of yrs out of it before it starts to look "tacky".

And beware the bird poo, a couple of hours is all that's needed to let the acids in it to start etching the paint/wrap.

I basically want something that looks like this kind of black:

http://www.bodykits.com/Extreme-Dimensions/Body-Kits/Nissan-Skyline-Extreme-Dimensions-Duraflex-Fiberglass-GTR500-Conversion-Body-Kit-_-8-Piece-_-104157/614820/

The wrap black matte looks way too flat to me, or am I actually thinking of flat black?

I always thought it was glossy or matte, never this third 'flat'. To be honest the hood on that looks matte but the rest doesn't, even so I don't want something super reflective like most cars I see. Just not my personal taste. A little reflection is good, but only if it's a little, like in that picture.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...