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Odd...? I noticed that the Racepace built GTTRKT RB28 vcam R34 and the Midori R34 both ran external drains to the drivers side sump from washer bottle mounted catch cans.

I suppose if you meant dedicated circuit though, very small restrictors could be used as revs are always up high which would ensure the head gets enough, but not too much oil. Such a restrictor might not be a good idea in a street car though. I believe it was Steve telling me that some of the racepace cars were using a 0.9mm restrictor. Is this what you meant?

Sorry I should clarify - no additional drain @ rear of the head. Factory drains on the cam covers --> catch cans of course. Return to sump or not, plenty of different setups around.

Some users on here have the additional rear drain, restrictors (unsure what size), catch cans and STILL have motors breathing heavily. So something is certainly up when others don't need any additional rear drains to keep things under control.

Dont use a standard sump with a high volume pump. It is a recipe for a blown motor.

+1

Sorry I should clarify - no additional drain @ rear of the head. Factory drains on the cam covers --> catch cans of course. Return to sump or not, plenty of different setups around.

Some users on here have the additional rear drain, restrictors (unsure what size), catch cans and STILL have motors breathing heavily. So something is certainly up when others don't need any additional rear drains to keep things under control.

Which to me indicated that the rear drains are perhaps not as effective as soem make them out to be. Which is different from saying they are not useful.

So the question then is: What size oil restrictor is in the head of your motor?

From memory I think is was the 0.9 that was in the original build unless he changed it.

I think there was a lot of other factors for the improvement, 5 pounds less boost now runs 20 psi for 355 rwkw, shimed oil pump, standard cams back in that lowered the RPM, better built engine with a much better ring seal and tolerances and a few other little tricks. Just a much better package.

Never had a problem since, not even a drop of oil in the catch can.

From memory I think is was the 0.9 that was in the original build unless he changed it.

I think there was a lot of other factors for the improvement, 5 pounds less boost now runs 20 psi for 355 rwkw, shimed oil pump, standard cams back in that lowered the RPM, better built engine with a much better ring seal and tolerances and a few other little tricks. Just a much better package.

Never had a problem since, not even a drop of oil in the catch can.

There is the main culprit sorted for starters.

So how much tension? How measured on what (brand) rings?

Wiseco pistons and I assume rings so nothing special, more attention on machining getting the block and bores exactly right.

In short, I just spent the dosh and went to someone who had a long history in building and developing RB engines.

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