Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you have broken into 1.5s for your 60footer which is simply incredible!

my previous r32gtr which had 320awkw (street car) & knowing that the r32 is only 1450kg which is light in comparison to the r35 (what do they weigh?), i was running MT drag radials & launching off the limiter took me to my PB @ 1.5s

...you have just about matched that with street tyres, btw u have a beautiful package (that doesn't sound right hehe)

  • Replies 167
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

looks like toyo 888's + volk g2's

i went out to do a 60-130mph pull and was loosing traction in 3rd and 4th with my 21" yoki advans - im going to grab a set of michelin super sports asap

grip with my yoki's has just fallen off so quickly, 2nd gear is pretty much useless in this dry cold weather

Edited by domino_z

looks like toyo 888's + volk g2's

i went out to do a 60-130mph pull and was loosing traction in 3rd and 4th with my 21" yoki advans - im going to grab a set of michelin super sports asap

grip with my yoki's has just fallen off so quickly, 2nd gear is pretty much useless in this dry cold weather

what an awesome problem to have :)

Martin what wheel and tyre combination have you fitted in these pics?

Domino was right

Toyo R888 tyres on Volk G2 black rims, 10.5 front, 11 rear

WR600 has a black/black theme going, even has the black carbon Velo race seat and black harnesses :)

my1220.jpg

Now we have the tuning where we want it the WR600 will be back at the strip next meeting on some fresh boots to run down a 9 second pass. The Syvecs management system truly allows some amazing advances in tuning these cars, like the ability to have traction control that keeps the car totally under control in the wet, so very very different to factory :)

Yes it would be I believe Domino.

Running a 9 is no burning desire for us though, been there and done that many times with the older GTRs before and know the procedure fairly well. It will be given a go, but not as a priority if you like.

We certainly wont get involved in the US game of winding the things up till they go 9s or splatter conrods all over the track just to post a timeslip on a forum. In our opinion GTR is about much more than that. 400m times are interesting, but about 1/10th of the GTR story :)

Yes it would be I believe Domino.

Running a 9 is no burning desire for us though, been there and done that many times with the older GTRs before and know the procedure fairly well. It will be given a go, but not as a priority if you like.

We certainly wont get involved in the US game of winding the things up till they go 9s or splatter conrods all over the track just to post a timeslip on a forum. In our opinion GTR is about much more than that. 400m times are interesting, but about 1/10th of the GTR story :)

You only have to look over @ NAGTROC to see the tranny failures and other issues, and of course 99% of them on big power mods and owners wondering why it broke LOL... Good to finally see someone with their head screwed on Re: Power modding :)

US Tuners/vendors are victims of the typical American consumer - I'm sure if they wanted to they could focus on circuit setups vs drag, but the typical American thinks bigger is better and will happily pay for it, so they're stuck competing with each other for dyno number thread glory and drag times

Edited by domino_z

so they're stuck competing with each other for dyno number thread glory and drag times

And totally missing the point of GTR in the first place.....

There are much better cars for dyno racing or drag racing, just not many better actual cars though :)

We keep a lot of the stock suspension rehab. In fact this run was on - totally - stock suspension. However in the next few weeks we are integrating some roll stiffness and camber into the car with our suspension development partner Whiteline :)

Some installation shots of the WR600 MY12 Willall Racing/Whiteline suspension tweaks (note on earlier models we change the spring/damper combination as well)

Camber offset bushes installed in top arms

my1231.jpg

With the camber bushes and castor bushes in place the MY12 can deliver -3 degrees negative camber in the front end, which is preferable for fast track work, and still be dialled out for street dutires

my1232.jpg

Front roll bar stifness has been changed to stop the car kneeling over on the outside loaded tyre, which is a major contributor to the beating the GTR gives its front tyres at the track, and a major contributor to understeer

my1233.jpg

Upgraded rear bar balances the effect of the front sway bar change to keep the chassis neutral

my1234.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
×
×
  • Create New...