Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Arx Go Faster Bits


Jules740
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to these cars so forgive me if I sound like a massive noob, tried using search but info for these things is a bit all over the place so I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction, my plan was to go a turbo back exhaust, hdi cooler and raise the boost up a couple of psi(if that's possible in stock form)

any other ideas or advice would be sweet! Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have the dosh RHDjapan, nengun.com or any of those types of stores can source you new parts from japan.

For used parts try scouring Yahoo.jp or even the forsale section here..

i have some Nismo Suspension (Nismo Struts and Nismo springs) for sale if you are interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good plan Jules. Bear in mind a good turbo back exhaust will also increase flow and you'll probably see a bit extra boost. When I did mine, I gained 3PSI.

Also do some searching about the turbo banjo bolt, and budget for a turbo. Sounds like a Hypergear rebuild is the go these days, for around $1k depending on what you're looking to gain.

Have a read through these forums and m35stagea.info and I'm sure you'll find a heap more info (and have a heap more questions!).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you do the "power duct" mod to the airbox with an aftermarket airfilter, HDi cooler and full exhaust you should get and increase of 4PSI (16PSI)

but first i would be getting one of scotty's dump pipes and then get a full 3" stright through exhaust made or buy one already made.

also another thing to keep in mind is an intake spacer but that one is up to you.

these mod's should get an extra 35Kw at the wheels..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I've read about the turbo's so ill definately plan for that, would I have to remove the turbo myself(my mechanic) and send it in for highflowing?

Also read that the stock suction is a big restriction...any alternatives without going custom made?

Cheers for the info dudes sort of got an idea on where to start haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depends on your power goal, that standard suction will get you to about 180kw, with an after market ecu. if you go custom without getting a new ECU, you will hit the air flow cut, which is rather annoying.

I REALLY reccomend cleaning that banjo restrictor bolt before anything. once that thing gets blocked you'll end up with a blown turbo like I did three times before we found it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 now if you count the s14 Aaron. :)

I can make a suction pipe and any other pipes you require but I would need the car here for most of the work. Where are you located? The only parts I have a jig for and can send interstate are the dump pipe, the front pipe with cat and the lower 2 sections of the suction (intake) pipe to the AFM at the moment. PM me if you are interested. :)

Definitely clean the banjo restrictor, its in the block just in front of the passenger driveshaft. If you have trouble doing that, you will love doing the turbo swap. lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+11ty for banjo bolt; it's such a simple job, seriously takes no time to remove.

Very cheap insurance.

The other thing that no one has mentioned is the shift kit; which I'd have to say is one of the things I'm most happy with, and would be a benefit even on a dead stock car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You play the Banjo Dale? lol.

Lol, of course dude! This is my brother & I playing outside our shack; I kick arse, but frankly he's a bit of a wanker...

What role do they play if you can replace them?

The banjo bolt has a 1mm hole in it to restrict the amount of oil going through the core of the turbo; as a BB core requires much less oil than a comparable plain bearing core.

The 1mm hole is a potential failure point, as it can easily block with gunk if the car hasn't been regularly serviced.

There's mixed opinion about whether it needs to be bigger, or whether it just needs to be cleaned out.

IMO; the hole is unnecessarily small, and even though mine was absolutely perfect when removed, I've opened the hole up to 1.5 mm with absolutely no ill effects.

I believe it's cheap insurance, but others don't. Either way; check it.

A 17mm socket, a 12" extension bar and a ratchet will have it out in no time, using a spanner just makes life hard.

When re-installing; pack the void in the back of the socket with some newspaper to stop the banjo from sinking to the back of the socket and wind it in by hand using the socket & extension bar only.

You can also wrap a few turns of insulation tape around the hex of the bolt to hold it firmly in the socket as you line it up.

Don't lose the compression washer from behind the oil line, or the one on the banjo.

Nip it up, and start the engine; checking for leaks. Job done.

Edit; Beat me to it Scotty.

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi i do buy a aftermarket headlight on ebay. For v35 skyline coupe. I know that its a plug and play and just use the old low beam light and balast from old headlight. But my problem is i dnt have knowlage on car and electrical thing. And the head light getnon ebay is the wire for halo ring light is not connected. I talk to the seller and he said that. What white and black wire for halo robg light is need to connect to RDL. Running day light. Anyone here can tell me how to connect it to Rdl? Which wire is yhe RDL?
    • Hey Kaz, Unfortunately I am not at home currently and wont be for a few more months so I do not have access to my files or CAD. And at this point I prefer to keep the files to myself as I want to potentially make a few more pairs and see if they will sell within the EU before openly marketing them. But the way it's shaped and how small it is, I don't think you can fit both an indicator and a fog light onto the same surround, unless they were very small LED-type clusters.
    • I’ve just installed a Uniclutch sport into my R32. I’ve been blown away by it… it drives like a stock Toyota Corolla. It doesn’t make sense to me that a performance clutch can drive this well. I was about to pull the trigger on a Nismo Coppermix twin plate when I discovered the Uniclutch and decided to give that a shot instead. They’ve changed the game and I couldn’t be happier.    I was previously using an Extreme cushioned button clutch with lightened flywheel. I’m still using the same lightened flywheel with the Uniclutch.
    • Mmmm no, that's a white series 2 R33 GTS-t
    • Oh and.... "no bubble on the dash" ---> immediate no mod status.
×
×
  • Create New...