Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I am selling lots of GTR and S15 parts.Please sms/call/pm Alex on 0433878905 for pics and details.Will take reasonable offers,please no low ballers and time wastsers.Prefer local pick up for large items. interstate buyer will have to pay freight.

These are all my spares for the S15 and Gtr33 track cars. May even consider selling one of them in the near future.

1. Getrag GTR34 6 speed fully checked and recon by Mitchem Transmission,no shifter_______________________$2900

2 S15 6 speed recon by Mitchem_________________________________________________________________$1400

3 RB25 GTST 5 sp, my spare one for S15 upgrade___________________________________________________$1350

4 2x 300ZX 5 speed, got them for SR conversion,gone RB25 way________________________________________$950@

5 C-s short shfters GTR33 5 sp and GTR34 6 sp brand new____________________________________________$250@

6 Rays/Nismo LMGT4 bronze colour in box 18x10.5+15 ( cost over $6800 landed)___________________________$4800

7 Rays/Nismo LMGT4 bronze 17x9.5+12 some light scratches on anodizing on rim edge can be powder coated____$2200

8 4x RE 55 255/40/17 half tread,2x 245/40/18 done one track day_______________________________________$200@

9 G-Max 2x 18x8+38 with 225/40/18 Toyo R1R 2x 18x9+35 with 265/35/18 R1R 3 very good one rear 20% left___$1200

10 Trust/Greedy T88-38GK turbo rated 1100hp excellent condition no shaft play____________________________$2000

11 Trust T518 fully recon by Rotormaster cost 720____________________________________________________$950

12 Garrett GT3071 with manifold, internal gate, braided line and dump,dyno time only________________________$2000

13 HKG GT3037 with manifold, external gate plumbed back,lines,still in S15________________________________$2500

14 ARC RB 26 titanium front pipe usual scratches at bottom_____________________________________________$600

15 HKS Super Drager S/S 93 mm cat back exhaust GTR33______________________________________________$600

16 Kakimoto twin 65mm with twin rear Mufflers big power cat back exhaust GTR33___________________________$1200

17 Kakimoto Titanium 93m with one rear muffler cat back exhaust GTR33__________________________________$800

18 Vielside GTT34 front bar in yellow colour_________________________________________________________$950

19 Tilton alloy peddle box,no cylinders_____________________________________________________________$450

20 Japanese 6 point bolt on black roll cage suit GTR33/GTST___________________________________________$900

21 ATS triple carbon push type clutch suit GTR33 brand new in box______________________________________$3900

22 Exedy cushion button clutch suit SR20 fully recon__________________________________________________$700

23 DBA 5000 2 pieces 330mm sloted rotors GTR33/34 one track day and machined_________________________$500

24 RB 26 full bottom end with JE pistons balanced with GTR33 crank collor GTR32 sump_____________________$2500

25 Ross harmonic balancer suit GTR32, like to swap Ross/ATI for GTR33_________________________________$450

26 RB26 fully reworked head with OEM cams for response,machine shop cost $1100________________________$1600

27 4 sets of carbon/alloy rear wings_______________________________________________________________$200@

28 GTR33 rear wing set unpainted with stop light_____________________________________________________$250

29 Ohlins fully adjustable coilovers GTR33/34 no lead no knocks________________________________________$1100

30 S15 Vertex front bar in pearl__________________________________________________________________$500

That is all I can think of, more to come later

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400573-collection-of-gtr-and-s15-parts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Kylie got the first Dibs on ARC pipes

zillr Ross balancer looks like new, engine has not done much as it was pulled out with hair line crack in the head, thus I prepare a fully recon head as spare

GTRPSI Peter Ross is metal jacket part # 306202X2

Ohlins, got pics,try to find out how to upload them , no idea about spring rates, felt a bit soft at Phillip Island. got many other odd pairs Ohlins with Tien thick springs, send me mobile number or email so I can send pics

post-50742-0-77000500-1337523200_thumb.jpg

post-50742-0-96244500-1337523264_thumb.jpg

Hi, posting for many inquiries. Trust T518Z is 8 cm rear housing. recon by Rotomaster cost $720. it gave me 255kw at wheel 19psi on 98 and 298kw with E85. It has a hairline crack near the internal gate, I was told by tuner and rebuilder not to worry about as it is holding boost. I have bought a 3071 to put in straight away to make it to P/I. Now I have put a HKS GT3037 with external gate ( dont know the gate size yet) plumbed back. With the base tune, I find it a bit laggy will get a fine tune to decide what to use. Selling the S15 track car to make way for the GTR33 track machine. Will let the prospective buyer to choose what turbo he wants

Hi Tim,

Can you please post pics of

17 Kakimoto Titanium 93m with one rear muffler cat back exhaust GTR33__________________________________$800

Please

Cheers

Can you post some photos of the 4 rear wings?

Can you post some photos of the 4 rear wings?

Can you post some photos of the 4 rear wings?

Can you post some photos of the 4 rear wings?

Hi

My C-West two layers GT wing on the S15 is 150cm, the big carbon one is 145cm ( ear marked for S15 if I decided to go light weight with the carbon boot lid ) smaller carbon one is 140cm,matt black alloy one is 145cm and gloss balck alloy one is 151cm. brands unknown

post-50742-0-77280500-1337707940_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...