Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

i drove my skyline from perth to port hedland and back. on the way back one section i held 220 km/h for 300 km, most other sections the stops were too far apart to be able to do that with out running out of fuel. if you honestly want to do that run i would suggest one waiting till after the wet season (less chance of animals on road) and two getting a 100 litre tank in the boot so you dont have a fuel problem. also maybe have bottles of oct booster for the trip.

if anyone from perth is going to do this, i have no problem being part of this. i would recommend doing it in a few jumps. perth to port hedland first day. 1800 km or there abouts. could do in 10-12 hours. then goto broome or derby. then etc etc.

damn straight!

Gotta research the fuel situation better tho, *could* get in trouble with the distance between towns.

MattyB, when you say get a 100l tank, do you mean carry jerry cans or some sort of mod?

Gotta research the fuel situation better tho, *could* get in trouble with the distance between towns.

Take Toulene with you ??????

Damn I wish I didn't have a job - I'd cruise up with ya

what i would suggest is you get a fuel cube put in the back. set up a seperate fuel guage and pump in that tank. to connect the hosing what you do is simple. the line out of this other tank connects to the return pipe on the original fuel system, then the breather line goes and connects to the breather line of the orginal fuel system. both using t peices. then all you have to do to refuel when your running low is hit a switch and then watch the guage. this would be alot faster than using jerry cans. but its also more work.

if your aiming for fastest times there then its definately the way to go. but if your just going to cruise then get a map, work out the distance between towns on the route your going to take and then decide if you will need jerry cans.

if there was going to be a SAU cannonball run i would so be in that. you could even do it like the mischeive 3000 in the states. where its all for charity. so everyone whom enters puts in say 200 dollars or so then whom ever wins decides where it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...