Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys need a expert advise about turbo upgrade my gf got me this off eBay which is not refundable was wondering if its worth putting in my car as it cost less then a grand … pls any advise is welcomed http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYLINE-RB25-RB25DET-R34-R33-GT3582R-UPGRADE-turbo-kit-/330667707951?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=iteam4cfd54ce2f&vxp=mtr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400738-r34-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Better start searching mate. Go to the rb25 dyno thread,

And send your gf back to the kitchen. This would never have happened if she didn't leave the kitchen.

:rofl2:

If it was my car i know i wouldnt be fitting it up, it will be laggy but thats the least of your problems... Getting piping etc made to suit, re-tuned and all that stuff just to SEE if the chinese POS works? I would Ebay it and let some other goose give it a go... BUT thats just me :wave:

No such thing if you want to do it properly. Even less likely for an R34GTT... If you want to do a cost effective turbo upgrade then i would suggest the HG turbos... Any way you go with a turbo upgrade is going to cost decent money!

You should be fine, go have a read of the HG thread along with a squizz at the RB25 dyno section etc....

My car was running 200kw when i got it with high flow turbo, Power FC, Standard AFM, Standard Injectors etc.... I upgraded the injectors to 550cc and ran 250kw still running the standard AFM (However i would suggest you upgrade it if you are going for a retune anyway), make sure your fuel pump is up to the task and ideally have exhaust, cooler and some form of boost control.... There are many ways around making power but simple ways are very effective!

I'd keep it subtle but responsive for a street tune.

Upgrade to a R34 GTR N1 turbo (Ball Bearing Steel Internals).

Which is equivalent to a Garrett -7 or more so very similar.

For a bit more top end go for a Garrett -9.

I'd keep it subtle but responsive for a street tune.

Upgrade to a R34 GTR N1 turbo (Ball Bearing Steel Internals).

Which is equivalent to a Garrett -7 or more so very similar.

For a bit more top end go for a Garrett -9.

GTT dude... Not GTR?

haha thought so!

Best off keeping it simple..... My original highflow was all factory bolt up, so for stealth and cost reasons he should aim for somthing like that.... Other GTT's out there making good power with them, mine didnt as the tuner was a retard.... Since then i got bored and continued on to a high mount, but the cost outweighs the cost of the car so when you see a post "Not very expensive"you generally steer away from MOST aftermarket setups :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...