Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not too sure wtf it is now... i've checked over a few things but i want other peoples opinions on the subject first as well.

Timing belt was replaced awhile ago, (3-4 Months) and since then i've driven it daily. My current issue is that it wasn't noisy... but now it is, and it becomes concerning when i can hear it over my turbo.

I know from checking it, that it's coming from the left pulley, i just want to know what other people think it is.

It's driving me nuts!!!

Plus, want to know if it's a good or bad idea to run my car without it's belt cover.... because it was a bitch to get off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400782-rb25-noisy-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

@JJman, Just a Dayco Timing belt was the replacement and no the sound is exactly the same with the cover on and off.

@Moodles, Thanks for clearing that up.

@Dobz, Really? Because the sound is LOUDEST from the Left cam pulley but i'll give it a go and see what happens.

It was replaced proffesionally at a shop, but no i don't think the bearings were changed.

I agree with Dobz ask for an invoice stating that the bearings were changed.

(Side comment)Recently got my timing belt done for shits because I didn’t know if it had been done at 100,000Km and my mechanic recommended that the bearings be changed as well . (car doesn’t back fire now)

Do u live in a dusty area because I know with trucks that i drive get squeaky belts because a glaze has built up on the pulley from bull dust and alike (because i didn’t care i just put a bit of soapy water around the problem area and the sound would go away)

?

Edited by Luke stock R33

I can't believe the belt was changed, but not the bearings as well, and by the sounds of it the crank and cam seals weren't done either.

I don't think its really practical to do a front seal with a timing belt change. Cam half moons maybe but this can be done easily anytime, I didn't do mine in my 100,000km service, did them when I resealed my can covers

And since i've been running the machine without the cover, the CAS has been running fine, was also checked by an RB proffesional and he's happy with how it's set.

Cover will be going back on, but yeah.

mine sounds just like this after i put new cam shafts in, i think i put the idle bearing spring under the stud on the block instead of over,will this cause much harm to the engine?

figure i'll fix it in a few months once i get a carport or it stops raining for awhile

Edited by Dan_J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...