Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett Equivalent Of Hks Gt-Ss

kylieyeah
 Share

Recommended Posts

kylieyeah Community Regular

kylieyeah

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I really would like to know what are the Garrett equivalent of the HKS GT-SS turbo's?

I have researched for a bit to find many mixed results that they could be either the -7's or -9's

based on the source. However, from my understanding the -7's are actually closer to the

N1 turbo's off the R34 GTR's.

Also, does anyone which is suppose to output more power between the -7 and -9's?

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401421-garrett-equivalent-of-hks-gt-ss/
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

GTSS is EXACTLY the same as -9. It's the same part without a pretty badge. This information is in just about every thread started on this topic since SAU started.

For the rest, use the search button. It's been covered so many times, in great detail. There won't be a single question you can think of that hasn't been answered already on those turbos.

There's a 300kw GTR thread, 400kw thread, RB26 dyno results thread, 7's vs 9's thread (not this one) plus more. There's ECU threads, Fuel system threads, exhaust threads, dump pipe threads, intercooler threads, air box threads, clutch threads, radiator threads, brake threads, wheel size and fitment threads. It's all been covered before :)

This may seem rude, but members on here who have taken the time to give very detailed answers and information in the past will find it rude that their past contributions are neglected by other users who are too lazy to take the small amount of time to search when they've given their time to answer the questions already.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Le sigh.....

Will -9's (GT-SS) go well with a 2.8??? :P

No one has asked that yet!

My guess is awesome low to midrange, then a choked top end and drop off after 6500ish due to smaller hotside compared to -5's, and smaller cold side witth more heat if you put in more PSI.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Le sigh.....

Will -9's (GT-SS) go well with a 2.8??? :P

No one has asked that yet!

My guess is awesome low to midrange, then a choked top end and drop off after 6500ish due to smaller hotside compared to -5's, and smaller cold side witth more heat if you put in more PSI.

+1

....but, They will make more hp than the -7 due to the larger trim on the comp. And a -5 might be too big for him

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

gtr.uk confussed me so much mate, there quite old posts aswell but people keep saying gtss are -7s ect ect, or they say -7 is bigger then -9 ect ect

The pommie forum has really taken a dive in quality over the lasts few years.

-9's are SS's without actuators and a badge.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

The difference between HKS GT-SS and -9's is nothing. GT-SS used to come with HKS stamped front compressors but now they have the same cover as Garrett -9s (and have had it for ages now). GT-SS come with adjustable actuators, -9's don't come with any actuators (Garrett do make bolton adjustable actuators to suit though that can be brought seperately).. although if you wanted standard actuators on -9s then you would want "-1's". For more info: https://www.turbobyg...oductCd=GT2859R

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...