Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh he complains but he kept the stock throttle body for one , with his upgrades there is no way he shoulf still be running that..... and yhere is also someone in that forum sayin he got quicker spool, better response, a minor hp gain and no bleed off at higher revs ....... And there is no dyno sheets anyways , thats not results btw

Plazmaman told me that the std throttle body is fine for my power (TD06-20G). They said a throttle body would help improve performance further but they understood why I had reservations about spending more dollars given the results I was getting.

Plazmaman were great to chat to...they returned calls promptly and were helpful with things I need to check but I am about 90% sure they arent issues as I had already checked them all as part of the original install. BUT, I will be trying it once I get my other car back on the road.

Give it a nudge, will be interesting to see what results you get. I am making over 300rwkws now out of my RB20 so if there is something that will help make it it a little easier with less then 23psi etc then I am willing to give it a try. I still have Poncams laying around which are getting trialled after my next track day

gallery_462_50_44142.jpg

...oh and for what its worth part of the reason I keep my engine pretty basic is that I happen to know a guy with a Gibson R31 GTS-R and its real interesting to hear all the things they tried and ended up with to end up with the 420hp odd that they raced with and likewise my tuner is a fan of a lot of std gear on the engine for a responsive street/track engine combination

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow this type of stuff pisses me off, I know the guys at Plazmaman well I go there all the time and they deserve every cent of what they charge. The amount of r&d that goes into their gear is ridiculous and they will not be satisfied until they are sure it is the absolute best and cannot be beaten. For someone to come along and steal their design and brand it as there own is immoral and wrong, I have seen first hand the number of intercoolers they have in the scrap bin because they weren't happy. They looked fine to me but they simply didn't meet their strict quality control. Buy off the guy who put the effort in to getting it right!

One thing people are forgetting or not considering is that whilst the Freddy manifolds are cast these Plazmaman knock offs are welded and it pays to be prepared to take the thing off at one point and weld up splits. You hear of cheap welded alloy manifolds splitting and it's my guess that it is going to be worse these days with E85 and people throwing more boost at their cars

One thing people are forgetting or not considering is that whilst the Freddy manifolds are cast these Plazmaman knock offs are welded and it pays to be prepared to take the thing off at one point and weld up splits. You hear of cheap welded alloy manifolds splitting and it's my guess that it is going to be worse these days with E85 and people throwing more boost at their cars

The 1JZ engines we have here run 60 psi boost and 150-200 shot of gas and don't have problems with the custom plenums that are on them. At the end of the day it all comes down to whether the person making the thing knows what they are doing. Any wanker can weld a box up and call it a plenum. Making it work and making it quality are two totally different ball games

The 1JZ engines we have here run 60 psi boost and 150-200 shot of gas and don't have problems with the custom plenums that are on them. At the end of the day it all comes down to whether the person making the thing knows what they are doing. Any wanker can weld a box up and call it a plenum. Making it work and making it quality are two totally different ball games

please oh please sent me the details of said 1j's!!!!!

1. VR Commodore Ute - 1JZ (fastest and quickest 1JZ in Australia - currently doing 9.1 @ 153) Owners name is Derek

2. LJ Torana - 1JZ (quickest/fastest manual 1JZ in Australia - 10.3 was his time with the manual I believe but he put an auto in and now does 9.6 @ *edit* was 147mph) Owners name is Danny

Photos of the commodore are on my Facebook but the Torana is on Youtube on EFI's page

http://www.facebook....14465228?ref=hl

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...