Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, been searching the net and SAU and havent found much regarding slide industries turbo chargers and accessories.

Wondering if any of you have used/are using one of their turbo's and are they any good?

any info would be appreciated, cheers.

http://stores.ebay.c...sid=p4340.l2563

Edited by Crazy Xav
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402501-slide-industries-parts/
Share on other sites

Looking at their ebay ad's. Their "GT35R" is not a real Garrett unit, it's a China copy. The ad really should make mention of the fact - but it doesn't.

Why not just purchase from the trusted SAU Traders down in the For Sale area of the forum? Many businesses, all reputable, catering for anything really.

There are items for people on strict budgets.

There are those that want the best performance regardless of the money.

Given you are looking at economy priced turbos, get something from Hypergear - not some old T04 piece of junk, you will regret it.

Solid advice given above.

Hypergear is the only true reliable and easy budget option IMHO.

Kando Dynamic are a good thing also, but they do entail a lot more effort and custom parts which can end up more expensive (despite the lower initial outlay).

How can they possibly make a t04z and sell it for 700 bucks?? Thats ridiculous.

I got my garret one second hand 5 years ago and it cost a shite load then arent genuine ones upward of 3k?

Nah, got my "old TO4 piece of junk" :rolleyes: new from a garret dealer for $1700..

Thanks for the advice guys, its obvious that its just a headache to go cheap parts, with the time it takes to install and tune only to have it break. i will be keeping my eye out on the for sale thread!

I was looking at their 'GT35' specs are way out, just like the majority of the cheapies ive seen on the market.

I Don't think there as bad as most "eBay" turbos, Ryan "slide" Cummings runs a Slide Industries ( its his company ) turbo kit on his S13.5

Edit: This Kit

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RB25DET-GT35R-500HP-Turbo-Kit-Manifold-Wastegate-Turbo-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-/251067845159?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a74cf4a27

Edited by Autumn33

That was the kit I was considering.

Would be good to actually get one to test reliablitiy for others to have a cheaper alternative to Garrets and the like.

Ive decided to go a Hypergear turbo, on a top mount manifold though, thanks to some good advice from other SAU members :)

I Don't think there as bad as most "eBay" turbos, Ryan "slide" Cummings runs a Slide Industries ( its his company ) turbo kit on his S13.5

Edit: This Kit

http://www.ebay.com....=item3a74cf4a27

Well given they are not Garrett GT series wheels (look like T04 wheels from the good old 1970s), and likely not ball bearing either...

So fine for a car that lives about 5000rpm most of it's life - terrible for a car you would intend to drive on the street.

When I got my car, I started looking on E-bay for turbos, turbo kits, exhausts, intercoolers and everything you can think of - still do, but not for cheap stuff anymore.

Being new to the skyline scene, found a turbo kit on ebay for 800 bucks!! was thinking awesome, cheap! done! lol. GT35r, manifold, dump pipe, wastegate, everything..

after a few months of reading on here, and researching, more reading and then having another look properly I soon reaslied you cant go for cheap shit. if you want the power and reliablity.

Before knowing any better, had a budget of 4-5k for an engine build and bolt ons.From pricing stuff on ebay LOL. Now im at almost 20k(from other builds on here its still not that pricey) and the car is still not running. Putting things into perspective, the cheap ebay complete turbo kit for $800 that sounded like a bargain, just covers the cost of my turbosmart 50mm wastegate. Turbo by itself was $2200.

You can do it for cheaper, buy cheap turbos and stuff, and make ok power and probably be happy.. but for how long? Do it right the first time, spend the little extra to save you money in the long run.

For a cheaper turbo, hypergear are nice, personally I would look at Borgwarner.http://www.himni-racing.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25_288&zenid=s7s06ugd1cui7p2aoas5usbt61

Exactly, I don't mind using Ebay, if its for good parts as you said stiddy.

Luckily my Skyline had a HKS exhaust and a good fmic when i bought it :D

I would love to buy a genuine garret turbo but as this is a street car and I'm aiming for around 270rwkw with an unopened 25, a hypergear turbo, New injectors and coil packs with my wolf 3d V4 tuned right *should* be reliable. haven't had much luck with this car -.-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...