Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've had a vacuum leak problem or what I think is a vacuum leak problem for quite some time. My engine sometimes hunts, mostly when I take the key out and the turbo timer kicks in. One time I drove out the carwash and my engine was hunting real bad almost cutting the engine and when I put the foot down it just went CHUG CHUG CHUG and struggled to get up to speed with ALOT of fuel spitting out the back. I've ziptied alot of the small hoses coming out of the intake manifold(A 4mm or 6mm line on the back of the manifold allowing my gauge to read something and all hoses that size out of the manifold). I've only worked on marine diesel engines so I have no clue what to look for or what i'm even looking at too be honest haha.

Here's what my gauge reads normally and I would think its meant to be right down on the -7? I'm not 100%

cKrHw.jpg

Also i've found these stains on this hose coming near the front of the manifold, the side closest to the rocker cover but I never realised fluid even went into the intake manifold but there is a tiny coolant leak around this area somewhere too I can see a few drops on the block underneath it.

lMDmt.jpg

And this screw here(Pipe leads into my radiator) is damaged and not tight but again I don't know if it's even a problem

ZoxQD.jpg

If anyone could help me i'd be extremely thankful as I have a feeling i'm losing boost pressure due to this aswell and my fuel consumption is effected.

Thanks!

-Joe

EDIT:

Edited by Jo33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402576-cant-find-my-vacuum-leak-help-pics/
Share on other sites

sounds like a few problems you have there! the car wash misfire sounds like water on the ignition system, have a look at your coils and plugs and check if water is / has gotten in there

Edited by StevenCJR31

That earth wire is the main ECU earth. VERY important

Also clamp off the big tube that goes to idle air control. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, you've got a vacuum leak at the charcoal canister. Delete it to diagnose

Lookin gat your vacuum/boost guage......that is a completely normal idle vacuum. You will never see -700mmHg. Usually halfwayish between 350 and 700.

The coolant is normal. There is a coolant blled screw right there (I think it's the 10mm one on the edge of your circle. Open it to bleed, coolant drops out. Normal.

Lookin gat your vacuum/boost guage......that is a completely normal idle vacuum. You will never see -700mmHg. Usually halfwayish between 350 and 700.

The coolant is normal. There is a coolant blled screw right there (I think it's the 10mm one on the edge of your circle. Open it to bleed, coolant drops out. Normal.

Thanks for clearing that up, I've never seen boost pressure measured in mmHg always psi or bar so I didn't know what to expect.

Thanks for all the tips guys once I get home tonight i'll pick up all the gear I need on the way home and hopefully the hissing noise and hunting stops :D

It may have something to do with the turbo timer. Try leaving it idle without the timer on. Just leave key on. If it doesnt happen then its the timer

Id agree with that too. The turbo timer in mine used to make the car revs dip every time it beeped as it counted down. Never figured out why and couldnt be bothered unwirng it so just turned it off and hid it haha.

Edited by gotRICE?

Id agree with that too. The turbo timer in mine used to make the car revs dip every time it beeped as it counted down. Never figured out why and couldnt be bothered unwirng it so just turned it off and hid it haha.

It's called cheap install

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...