Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have searched and not found much,

so im interested in going either E85 or water/meth to get my gtx3076 onto some higher boost,

It seems the cost of both is about equal, so what is best? do they both have pretty much the same result?

Im leaning toward the water/meth injection because of the ease and cost of filling up a small bottle with water and methanol but can this still be effective in bringing on boost earlier ( 500rpm)?

My goal would be to keep the tune very safe on stock motor but to improve the area under the graph with as little hassles as possible, also to fry some tyres in second gear on 4000rpm :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402697-e85-vs-watermeth-injection/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Have searched and not found much,

so im interested in going either E85 or water/meth to get my gtx3076 onto some higher boost,

It seems the cost of both is about equal, so what is best? do they both have pretty much the same result?

Im leaning toward the water/meth injection because of the ease and cost of filling up a small bottle with water and methanol but can this still be effective in bringing on boost earlier ( 500rpm)?

My goal would be to keep the tune very safe on stock motor but to improve the area under the graph with as little hassles as possible, also to fry some tyres in second gear on 4000rpm :domokun:

water meth doesnt bring the turbo on earlier as its not injecting anything until you are on boost or starting to get on boost, it allows more ignition timing and cools the intake fuel/air mixture meaning you can lean on the tune more.

there is a big thread on it in this section.

i was reading it can be set up to the airflow meter , so it could come on even before boost, but even on 2000rpm its starting to boost so by 3000rpm or 3500rpm, would the boost be comming on harder and faster?

its not so much how much boost by when, its also how fast it builds as well , so in that way could it get upto full boost faster ?

It doesn't make more air go into the turbo so no doesn't bring it on earlier.

Does let you play with timing which can result in some midrange and top end changes

Wouldn't expect it to spool faster though.

Water meth is explained a lot and so is e85

They are both pretty much on par.

So it's just up to what you feel like doing.

One thing I guess you could say is if the meth fails for any reason you can do some damage.

But e85 is safer in that regard.

If you have access to e85 around you then I would probably be going that route.

Some systems run of IDC, maf voltage, boost but I dont think its going to give you any improvement in off boost performance.

If you set it up to start injecting at like 5-6psi then you might get a little bit more down low, but your turbo will probably build the boost quick enough to not really notice it too much I dont think.

my tuner said theres still a bit too much varience in pump fuel unless i buy E85 in the 200L drums which is guarenteed 85%, but only thing with this is the constant cost of it,

would i just have it tuned very conservatively incase it gets filled with say 70% at pump so theres no danger? the water/meth seems alot more simpler, just fill a small bottle up ... i know there is some fuel stations not far away with the E85 at the pump..

hmm, tell me what i should do to make this gtx3076 fry the tyres with ease, currently gets a bit loose at the back on 5000rpm, thats too long to wait, i want nasty wheel spin on 4000rpm...

is this the point where i start building an RB30 bottem end?

Edited by SliverS2

Yeah I was gunna say learn to clutch kick, then I read your spec list Mark and the problem is pretty obvious...your clutch is no good..your setup should be good for 350kws dude..how can you expect to get close to that with a 250kw clutch..?

my tuner said theres still a bit too much varience in pump fuel unless i buy E85 in the 200L drums which is guarenteed 85%, but only thing with this is the constant cost of it,

would i just have it tuned very conservatively incase it gets filled with say 70% at pump so theres no danger? the water/meth seems alot more simpler, just fill a small bottle up ... i know there is some fuel stations not far away with the E85 at the pump..

Go find a better tuner.

Everyone else seems to be able to tune accordingly without any issues what so ever.

my tuner said theres still a bit too much varience in pump fuel unless i buy E85 in the 200L drums which is guarenteed 85%, but only thing with this is the constant cost of it,

would i just have it tuned very conservatively incase it gets filled with say 70% at pump so theres no danger? the water/meth seems alot more simpler, just fill a small bottle up ... i know there is some fuel stations not far away with the E85 at the pump..

hmm, tell me what i should do to make this gtx3076 fry the tyres with ease, currently gets a bit loose at the back on 5000rpm, thats too long to wait, i want nasty wheel spin on 4000rpm...

is this the point where i start building an RB30 bottem end?

If your tuner has that opinion of pump e85 then I wouldn't be getting him to do either tune. The safety offered by ethanol is required imo to tune at 300+kw power with a GT30 rear. Yes it has been done but those setups are knock limited, there is no point pushing petrol to that point as the 98 fuel variation will kill it quicker.

Get e85 tuned a little rich and you will be fine on any ethanol fuel, if you are worried just slap a wideband in the dash and add 98 as required.

I haven't done water injection on any of my cars yet although I plan to direct inject water into a spare high compression VQ25 I have here. If you could inject it on the exhaust stroke you would have the steam to help spool the turbo, possibly gaining some response back. Perhaps it could work in the manifold too?

I haven't done water injection on any of my cars yet although I plan to direct inject water into a spare high compression VQ25 I have here. If you could inject it on the exhaust stroke you would have the steam to help spool the turbo, possibly gaining some response back. Perhaps it could work in the manifold too?

That sounds like an interesting prospect, anyone know much about that?

Your doing it wrong haha

My SS1PU hardly holds in 3rd these days

Also why do you wanna fry tires

I can't wait to setup my rears to hold 1st and 2nd boost.

cause frying them feels good, lol

but i get your point, 3rd pulls hard and is just about ready to get loose back there so im not complaining about that, the issue is its just 500rpm to 1000rpm too late to be exciting on the road, on a track it would be quite happy and probably perfect for a drift car where it spends alot of time on the top.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...