Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just putting and EOI up for my hypergear 3076 52T turbo

The turbo is bran new and never ran on my motor yet. I had it built just over a month ago and never used it as im looking at going bigger and better for my RB25. Has an OP6 rear housing so it makes life easy if you are using the standard dump pipe.

From sato: The specification is equivalent to a 3076 52T with slightly larger trim in turbine. This turbo made 260rwkws on a healthy neo motor with supporting mods and strong midrane. The acuator will hold 14~16psi with out an boost controller.

This will bolt upto your RB 100 percent i will be also adding braided oil and water lines into the sale too.

I am located in SA but i will freight at your expense.

Pics to follow.

Pm me for more info.

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402784-eoi-hypergear-3076-52t-turbo/
Share on other sites

Pm sent Just_Rb

how about $12

what are you aiming to acheive besides stroking your own ego, its not like its rare or anything special.

but seriously $12 cash?

How about f**k off?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...