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Hey everyone...

I've recently purchased a R32 4 door.

After coming from a 180sx drift car and getting in the 32, with 380rwkw - I took it out for a drift prac, and the rear end was waaay loose and the front end was lacking the movement I was craving.

I am a bit of a noob when it comes to skyline front ends. This is where YOU come in.

What works, what doesn't.

I am willing to take on any advice right now, because this skyline handles like a bucket as far as drifting is concerned.

Kind regards,

Wayne.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402940-r32-suspension-hunting-more-lock/
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Was just about to post something about this too. I did a quick search earlier and easiest seems to be tie rods spacers . Also was a few mentions of swapping over to an s14 steering rack.

I think driftworks make knuckles too.

You have a gtst I presume? I am wondering about the same but for a gts4 and would like to know how much extra lock can be added due to the 4wd system?

I have a GTST 4dr.

I already have tie rod end spacers and I felt I still wasn't getting the love I needed from the front end.

Before I go too crazy, I'll get new coilovers base height adjustable and then try another wheel alignment see how I go.

I have a GTST 4dr.

I already have tie rod end spacers and I felt I still wasn't getting the love I needed from the front end.

Before I go too crazy, I'll get new coilovers base height adjustable and then try another wheel alignment see how I go.

How much lock do you want? the first stage is rack spacers as you said you have, but have you trimmed down the lock stops to get the most out of them?

By the time you get the most out of them your going to end up getting steering bind which if you want to get rid of youll need offset rack spacers or move the rack forward. The next step would be to get some knuckles modified for the r32 to gain even more lock. But yeah it would pay to get a allignment with correct settings then go from there.

Coilovers aren't going to change the lock...

http://www.skylinesa...ting-more-lock/

Yes mate, I am well awear that coilovers will not assist with gaining more lock.

What I meant by it, is get the car sitting right, get a proper wheel alignment, and start from there and work my way through the front end

Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock

with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was better

added s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better again

added 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuff

all of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applications

most people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce binding

get your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

  • 2 weeks later...

Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock

with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was better

added s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better again

added 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuff

all of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applications

most people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce binding

get your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

Alright man, thanks very much for the detailed post. I'll give all the above a go bar the S14 rach and see how I go.

  • 3 years later...

I

Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was betteradded s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better againadded 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuffall of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applicationsmost people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce bindingget your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

I know this may be an old post but I am just adding information.

I also run the following:

R32 rack

Offset rack spacers

Aftermarket drop spindle tie rod ends

Cut and shut knuckles

R33 lca's

Adjustable upper chamber arm

Adjustable castor arms

I run negative 3 deg camber

8mm toe out

8 degrees castor

The set up has done me very well over the past 3 years of constant abuse however I want more now...next steps?

From memory the rack has completed as much travel as it can. Are there better racks to use e.g s14 or r33? There is conflicting information out there. Some say both s14 and r33 racks have further travel - some say it's just less turns lock to lock.

As my rack is on the the way out I'm keen to learn.

s14/ s15 etc rack from my experience definately got more travel and also less turns lock to lock

if you get binding reduce your castor

you've pretty much maxed out that type setup without going to new knuckles, changing mounting points etc etc

S14 s15 rack has 10mm more total travel than r33 which gives u 5mm extra each side. Now whether its worth going through trouble for 5mm is up to you but u only gain 2to3 degres more lock with 5mm.

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