Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Genuine HKS GT-RS Kit. .73 rear A/R + 1Bar HKS Actuator

Asking price: $1,750 ono. (open to geniune offers)

This is the perfect turbo upgrade kit for the RB25, Straight bolt on, to standard manifold and dump. spools as quick as the standard turbo,

This turbo kit is worth approx $3k + Taxes from japan. It comes with all paperwork, warranty papers. and documents, original receipts and all fittings that come with the kit including original packaging.

The turbo kit is has been removed from the car and has been carefully cleaned and all sealed up in box.

The car was making 255rwkw(350hp atw) on 14psi. I have only ever ran it at 1bar because it was fast enough, but it is good for 22-24psi(approx 400atwhp with supporting mods). This is a low km turbo and its condition is near new. Theres no shaft play, and the turbo kit is ready to be bolted in. Welcome to inspection and professional scrutiny.

The car has never been thrashed with the new setup, and management has been taken care of by a closed loop Apexi LM AVC-R + PFC. it was driven rarely and there has been no problems what-so-ever.

Reason for selling: I am selling the turbo because I am upgrading due to my new 30/25 setup. It is what i say it is or your money back.

Shipping/insurance costs included in sales price.

no timewasters or bullshitters please.

Located in Brisbane, QLD

Contact: Dale on 0432279166 or 0419745910

http://img850.images...hksgtrskit2.jpg

hksgtrskit2.jpg

http://img809.images...hksgtrskit3.jpg

hksgtrskit3.jpg

http://img267.images...hksgtrskit5.jpg

hksgtrskit5.jpg

Edited by SilverECR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402975-upgrading-your-turbo-on-your-rb25/
Share on other sites

awesome looking kit mate, best of luck with the sale. If I wasn't jobless and broke and didn't own an auto and it didn't have a big-ass dent in the side I would definitely go for this. Just out of curiousity what's that 4-way joiner in the bottom middle of the pic for, the one that's sitting on the pack of hose clamps?

awesome looking kit mate, best of luck with the sale. If I wasn't jobless and broke and didn't own an auto and it didn't have a big-ass dent in the side I would definitely go for this. Just out of curiousity what's that 4-way joiner in the bottom middle of the pic for, the one that's sitting on the pack of hose clamps?

thats a good question for HKS :) . I never used it. I'm pretty confident its a vacume T. I did mine a little different and didnt retain the standard intake manifold and cooler pipework. So I didnt need it.

Cheers

T piece for boost feed to the actuater

i was thinkin the same thing thanks

Suit RB20?

it should yes. as long as ur flange and the dump are correct type. which i think they may well be.

Are the splitfires in the pic for sale too?

No im sorry Im keeping those

Suit RB20?

If I had the cash it would already be in transit toward my RB20

spools as quick as the standard turbo

If this it true it will be ok on an RB20, I had a 25 turbo on my car when I bought it and it didn't feel laggy.

Edited by cherring

I can attest that this is a perfect turbo for a RB25 daily drive... Super responsive 250rwkw+

If someone buys this, message me if you're after a custom coil pack cover to go with the turbo (see pics below)

I'm switching to RB26 covers, so it's available for sale.

post-3204-1259824142_thumb.jpg

Engine Pic (HKS GTRS Coil Cover)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...